Things to do in Puerto Varas
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Cruce de Lagos
Many travelers enjoy the scenery around Lago Todos Los Santos, which can be crossed either as a day tour or as part of the bus-boat excursion across the Andes to Bariloche, Argentina. If the weather is clear it's a pleasant tour, but otherwise it can be quite frustrating. Only one company, Cruce de Lagos, does the trip; reservations are made through Andina del Sud.
reviewed
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La Olla
Serving the best seafood in town, this place packs in locals and tourists alike. The ceviche caribeño, with salmon and congrio, is a meal in itself, as is the caldillo (broth). Don't pass up the cilantro (coriander) and garlic bread spread.
reviewed
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Govinda
Though this intimate restaurant owned by a Spanish expatriate suffers from perpetual identity crises (first Italian, this Chilean-Spanish fusion with Indian accents, now changing to straight-up Spanish tapas and downsizing the prices), there remains one constant worth visiting for: the roasted eggplant in a house-made ricotta, tomato and yogurt sauce, an innovative dish that sends your palette dancing after mucho travel in southern Chile. The artisanal homebrew is also excellent.
reviewed
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El Barómetro
This place got too cool for its own good, expanding into a larger space housing lacquered Alerce tables, mismatched leather couches and polka-dot curtains, but with a crowd that has become a tad too rife with cuicos (Chilean yuppies) from the salmon industry. There are DJs Thursday to Saturday and an eclectic bar menu that includes hummus and tilapia, but the see-and-be-seen cachet has worn somewhat thin. That said, everyone still goes.
reviewed
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La Comarca
This eco-sensitive collective marries smaller outfitters specializing in dramatic and custom-tailored adventure trips to less explored areas of the Rio Puelo Valley and Chiloé with independent travelers looking for an experience beyond the norm. Groups are never more than 10-strong and options include half-day bike trips to Volcán Osorno (CH$30,000) and full-day treks to Volcán Calbuco (CH$30,000). They rent bikes as well.
reviewed
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Casino de Puerto Varas
As far as Chilean casinos go, this could be filed under ‘boutique’ with its dark hardwood skin and industrial-chic shell, but it’s still home to a corny knot of slot machines, desperate retirees and wannabe high rollers. It was adding a new five-star hotel during research. If you go, Puerto Varas legend says that you will have better luck if you enter through the doors that face the lake.
reviewed
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Ko'Kayak
Ko'Kayak has French-speaking, careful and fun-loving guides. Opportunities abound in Puerto Varas for great rafting and kayaking. Río Petrohué's diamond-blue waters churn up Class III and IV rapids. Rafting trips range from 5½ hours total, (two hours river time) to a full day rafting with canyoning. They will also take you all-day kayaking on Lago Todos Los Santos.
reviewed
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Imperial 605
This historic house above the costanera is dressed in sexy reds, saucy blacks and hardwood ceilings, upping the style ante in town. The food follows suit – lentil burgers with curry and grilled goat cheese, pork medallions in red wine reduction with mushroom and fava bean risotto – taking Puerto Varas to new culinary heights without sacrificing flavor for fashion.
reviewed
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Mediterráneo
With a great outdoor deck this place cooks up tapas, Italians dishes and, surprisingly, a variety of other Mediterranean dishes, including some vegetarian options. The pasta dishes are particularly good and plentiful and it is one of the few places that you'll find prosciutto. It's a popular and enjoyable spot, though slightly more expensive than others.
reviewed
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Casa Schwerter
Notable constructions in Puerto Varas include private houses from the early 20th century. Several of these houses serve as hospedajes, including the 1941–42 Casa Schwerter. Ask at the tourist offices for the brochure Paseo Patrimonial, which suggests a walking tour of 10 different houses, or the brochure Monumentos Nacionales.
reviewed
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Casa Hitschfeld
Notable constructions in Puerto Varas include private houses from the early 20th century. Several of these houses serve as hospedajes, including the 1930 Casa Hitschfeld. Ask at the tourist offices for the brochure Paseo Patrimonial, which suggests a walking tour of 10 different houses, or the brochure Monumentos Nacionales.
reviewed
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Campo Aventura
The best spot for a horse trek is the Cochamó Valley. Campo Aventura offers singleday to multiday treks, often in conjunction with some hiking, rafting or kayaking. The most popular is a three-day jaunt that traverses the valley from its riverside lodge to its mountain lodge in the rainforest. English and German are spoken.
reviewed
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Casa Wetzel
Notable constructions in Puerto Varas include private houses from the early 20th century. Several of these houses serve as hospedajes, including the 1930 Casa Wetzel. Ask at the tourist offices for the brochure Paseo Patrimonial, which suggests a walking tour of 10 different houses, or the brochure Monumentos Nacionales.
reviewed
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Merlín
Redefining Chilean cuisine, Merlín conjures such originals as smoked scallops with peach, tomato and basil and seared salmon with a hint of papaya. Try the filet mignon with oysters and glazed green onions. Whatever your choice, a frambuesa sour, made with home-distilled raspberry wine, is a fine way to start the experience.
reviewed
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Café Dane’s
This local favorite sums up the hybrid history of the region within its walls: küchen and empanadas, Alpen architecture and Spanish menus, apfelstrudel (apple strudel) and conger eel. It’s one of the few open early on Sunday. Try the empanada de horno (beef, egg, onions and olives), the town’s best (CH$1400).
reviewed
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Sirocco
Divine contemporary Patagonian specialties such as Magellanic lamb and native rabbit are worth forking over the pesos for a special night out at this high-end haute restaurant in a large house accented with local art. The puré rustico are the best mashed potatoes this side of grandma’s house.
reviewed
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Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón
Puerto Varas’ well-maintained German colonial architecture gives the town a distinctive middle-European ambience. The imposing and colorful 1915 Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón, overlooking downtown from a promontory, is based on the Marienkirche of the Black Forest, Germany.
reviewed
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Garage
As the name suggests, Garage, attached to the Copec station, caters to an artsy, less fishy crowd, staying up later than it should and hosting everything from impromptu jazz sessions to all-out Colombian Cumbia shakedowns. The crowds start gathering here around 11pm.
reviewed
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Vicki Johnson
Anyone who tries the ginger chocolate here would be hard-pressed to argue against this being Chile’s best artisanal chocolate. There is also a wealth of high-end rauli-wood kitchen utensils, jewelry, chutneys, olive oils and other tasty take-home treats.
reviewed
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Gray Fly Fishing
Gray Fly Fishing, the local Orvis rep, runs half-day trips on the Río Maullin for around CH$39,805 per person (not including equipment) and can set you up at more remote, high-end fishing lodges as well.
reviewed
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Adriazola Turismo Expediciones
There are loads of places to cast a line, but knowing just where the best spots are will require some local knowledge. Adriazola is a worthwhile outfitter and offers day fishing trips, including guide, gear and meals.
reviewed
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Apache
This spacious nightclub, north of the center along the coast road, is the place to head to at night to dance in Varas. Other clubs are further out of town on the road to Puerto Montt or in Puerto Montt itself.
reviewed
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Terra Nova
Once the hot spot in town, Terra Nova has faded into a relaxed eatery dominated by the TV set. The savory and sweet crepes along with a wide variety of cocktails make it still worth a lunch or afternoon visit.
reviewed
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Sushi Varas
If you don’t like cream cheese, speak up when you order; otherwise the sushi here will fulfill your cravings for raw fish but OD you on the Philadelphia. Your wallet will appreciate the CH$3900 lunch special.
reviewed
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Donde El Gordito
From the same family that owns the more famous La Olla, this smaller and cheaper (and some say better) seafood spot in the Mercado Municipal does wonderful things with crab sauce. It’s rich, but excellent.
reviewed
