Puerto Natales Getting there & around

Getting there & away

Land

Bus

Puerto Natales has no central bus terminal, though several bus companies use the bus stop at the junction of Valdivia and Baquedano. Book at least a day ahead in high season, especially for early morning departures. Services are greatly reduced during low season.

Most companies shuttle back and forth two to three times daily to Torres del Paine. Buses Gomez and Buses JB are your best bets, leaving between 7am and 8am and around 2:30pm. If you miss the morning buses you'll have to pay again for the afternoon one. Note that if you're heading to Lago Pehoé in low season, you need to take the morning bus to meet the catamaran (US$12.50 one-way, US$20 round-trip, two hours). Returns from the Administración (park headquarters) leave at 1:30pm and 6:15pm. These schedules are in constant flux, so double-check them before heading out.

For El Calafate, note that taking the very long day tour to the Moreno Glacier and staying in El Calafate after the tour is slightly cheaper than going by regular bus, spending the night and then paying for the price of a tour the next day.

Bus companies and destinations:

Bus Sur (411-325; www.bus-sur.cl; Baquedano 558) Punta Arenas, Torres del Paine, Coyhaique, Puerto Montt, El Calafate, Río Gallegos, Río Turbio, Ushuaia.

Buses Fernández& Pingüino (411-111; www.busesfernandez.com; Eberhard 399) Torres del Paine, Punta Arenas, Río Gallegos.

Buses Gomez (411-971; www.busesgomez.com; Arturo Prat 234) Torres del Paine.

Buses JB (412-824; Arturo Prat 258) Torres del Paine.

Buses Pacheco (414-513; www.busespacheco.com; Baquedano 244) Punta Arenas.

Turismo Zaahj (412-260/355; www.turismozaahj.co.cl in Spanish; Arturo Prat 236/70) Torres del Paine, El Calafate.

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Boat

A highlight of many people's Patagonian sojourn is the four-day, three-night northbound voyage through Chile's spectacular fjords aboard Navimag's MV Magallanes car and passenger ferry.

To confirm when the ferries are due contact Turismo Comapa (414-300; www.comapa.com; Manuel Bulnes 533) a couple of days before the estimated arrival date. The MV Magallanes leaves Natales early Friday and stops in Puerto Edén (or the advancing Glaciar Pía XI on southbound sailings) en route to Puerto Montt. Boats usually arrive in the morning of the same day and depart either later that day or on the following day, but schedules vary according to weather conditions and tides. Disembarking passengers must stay on board while cargo is transported; those embarking have to spend the night on board.

High season is November to March, mid- season is October and April, and low season is May to September. Most folks end up in dorm-style, 22-bed berths but often wish they had sprung for a private cabin with a view. Fares, which vary according to view, cabin size and private or shared bathroom, include interpretive talks and all meals (with basic vegetarian options - read: omelettes - if requested while booking). Bring playing cards, water, snacks, sea-sickness pills and lots of alcohol.

Per-person fares cost US$200 for a bunk berth in low season to US$290 for a AAAA cabin in mid-season, to US$1690 for a single AAA cabin in high season; students/seniors receive a 10% to 15% discount. Check online for current schedules and rates.

In winter the boat has fewer people and more cows - but rooms are cheaper and there are some great views of snowy landscapes.

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Air

Aerovías DAP (www.dap.cl) flies a seven-seater to El Calafate, Argentina (US$50, one hour) at 9am weekdays from the small airfield (airport code PNT) a few kilometers north of town on the road to Torres del Paine.

Lan-Ladeco (411-236) and Aerocontinente (600-209-2358) also run charter flights from the airfield to nearby airports.

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