Hiking, The Circuit

Should one hike the 'W' or go for the whole Circuit? The answer lies in one's time, hiking experience and endurance. Doing the Circuit takes five to eight days, while the 'W' takes at least three to four. If you're not driving, figure another day or so for transportation connections. With the Circuit you will definitely see more and get further away from the crowds; however, the 'W' neatly packages the park's 'highlight' views into a tighter period of time.

The majority of trekkers start both routes from Laguna Amarga, although it's also possible to hike from the Administración or take the catamaran to Lago Pehoé and start from there. The treks are not without difficulty, and hikers have suffered serious injuries and even died. For this reason Conaf frowns upon solo trekkers (although you'll be lucky to find any real solitude on the 'W' outside the dead of winter). It is, however, always prudent to hike with others. Something as minor and common as a twisted ankle can be a real problem if you are deep into the park and by yourself.

Doing the Circuit gives you bragging rights over all of the mere mortals who do the 'W,' but it also provides solitude and some stellar views that you can't get on the more popular of the two routes. The Circuit is comprised of the 'W,' plus the backside between Refugio Lago Grey and Refugio Los Torres. There are no refugios along this stretch and camping is basic. You'll need foul-weather camping and trekking gear, as mud (sometimes knee-deep), snow and wind are inevitable. While the popularity of the 'W' means you'll see lots of people along the way, that's not the case along the backside. Trekking alone is inadvisable (and restricted by Conaf). Make friends with others before heading out. The Circuit is closed during winter.

The hike, Refugio Lago Grey to Campamento Paso takes four hours from Campamento Guardas to Paso, about two hours going the opposite way. Hikers might want to go left to right (west to east), which means ascending the pass rather than slipping downhill.

From Campamento Paso to Camping Los Perros takes approximately four hours. This route has plenty of mud and sometimes snow. Don't be confused by what appears to be a campsite right after crossing the pass. Keep going until you see a shack.

Camping Los Perros to Dickson is around 4½ hours to hike. It's relatively easy but a windy stretch.

Camping Dickson to Seron takes six hours. As the trail wraps around Lago Paine, winds can get fierce and the trails vague; stay along the trail furthest away from lake. It's possible to break trek at Campamento Coirón, although it is currently recovering from the fire in 2005.

Camping Seron to Laguna Amarga: four to five hours. You can end the trek with a chill-out night and a decent meal at Refugio Las Torres, which comes much recommended.