Other sights in Chile
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Oficina Chacabuco
There are dozens of nitrate ghost towns in the Antofagasta region, lining both sides of the highway between Baquedano and Calama, and along the Panamericana north of the Tocopilla–Chuquicamata highway. The best preserved is Oficina Chacabuco, 2km north of the I-5 and I-25 intersection on I-5. This national monument was closed to the public at the time of research, after a 2007 earthquake made it unsafe for visitors. Plans are in the works to re-open the site, but you should call ahead.
reviewed
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Museum
From the El Tatio geysers it’s 46km along some switchbacks to highland idyll Caspana, as delightful as it is surprising. Nestled in its namesake valley, the ‘new’ village is built into the rocky escarpment, while the ‘old’ town teeters on the edge of a high plateau above. It’s exactly what an Andean village is supposed to look like – verdant terraces, thatched roofs, the colonial Iglesia de San Lucas and an archaeological museum. Do not drink the tap water here.
reviewed
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A
Museo Histórico Casa Gabriel González Videla
Although richly stocked with general historical artifacts, this two-storey museum concentrates on one of La Serena’s best-known – and most controversial – sons. González Videla was Chile’s president from 1946 to 1952. Ever the cunning politician, he took power with communist support but then promptly outlawed the party, driving poet Pablo Neruda out of the Senate and into exile. As you might expect, the reverent exhibits omit such episodes. But do pop upstairs for a look at the general historical displays and changing modern-art exhibits.
reviewed
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B
Museo Regional de Castro
Eternally in the process of moving to a surprisingly post-modern, cutting-edge hunk of architecture along the waterfront (on which construction has stalled due to lack of funds), this museum, half a block from Plaza de Armas, houses a well-organized collection of Huilliche relics, musical instruments, traditional farm implements and Chilota wooden boat models, and exhibits on the evolution of Chiloé’s towns. Its B&W photographs of the 1960 earthquake help you to understand the impact of the tragic event. The museum’s new waterfront home will be in the Museo y Archivo Municipal building.
reviewed
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Reserva Nacional Tamango
Boasting Chile’s largest population of endangered huemul deer, Reserva Nacional Tamango protects a 70 sq km transition zone to the Patagonian steppe. Huemul are notoriously shy, but chances of sighting one are better here than anywhere. At the entrance, trails (1.5km to 7km in length) lead to Laguna Elefantina, Laguna Tamanguito and 1722m Cerro Tamango. The reserve is 6km northeast of Cochrane; there is no public transportation to the entrance. At the corner of Colonia and San Valentín, hikers can take Pasaje No 1 north and then east to access trails to the entrance. Cochrane’s Conaf may have trail maps.
reviewed
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El Cañi
The nature sanctuary El Cañi is proof that concerned citizens can make a difference and affect conservation of old-growth forests. When logging interests threatened the area in 1991, Fundación Lahuen, a small cluster of concerned folks with start-up funding from Ancient Forests International, formed to purchase the land and develop a drop-dead-gorgeous park with an emphasis on education and scientific research. This success story is now a reserve that protects some 500 hectares of ancient araucaria forest, all of which has been turned over and now successfully maintained by a local guide association, Cañe Guides Group.
reviewed
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Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas
On the road to Paso Alto Coyhaique on the Argentine border, this 181-hectare wetland reserve hosts diverse bird life, including black neck swans, coots and grebes; the area is an ecological transition zone from southern beech forest to semiarid steppe. Orchids abound. A short hiking trail goes to Laguna El Toro while a longer loop flanks the northern edge of Laguna Escondida. Near the reserve’s entrance, Conaf maintains a self-guided nature trail (1km), a campground (per tent CH$3500) and a picnic area. While the park lacks regular public transportation, Coyhaique’s branch of Conaf may be able to offer suggestions for getting there.
reviewed
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Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo
Cerro Castillo’s basalt spires are the crowning centerpiece of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo, a sprawling 1800-sq-km mountain reserve of southern beech forest, 75km south of Coyhaique. The park boasts fine fishing and hiking, along with little foot traffic. Its namesake, the 2700m triple-tier Cerro Castillo, is flanked by three major glaciers on its southern slopes. Hikers can complete a segment of Sendero de Chile with the 16km trail to Campamento Neozelandés. Another recommended four-day trek leaves from Km75, at the north end of the reserve, and goes to Villa Cerro Castillo at the south end via a high route passing glaciers, rivers and lakes.
reviewed
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Cerro Paranal Observatory
In the world of high-powered telescopes, where rival institutes jostle to claim the ‘biggest,’ ‘most powerful’ or ‘most technologically advanced’ specimens, Paranal is right up there with the big boys. This groundbreaking Cerro Paranal observatory has a Very Large Telescope (VLT) consisting of an array of four 8.2m telescopes – for a time at least, the most powerful optical array in the world. The observatory is run by the European Southern Observatory (ESO), and is so futuristic-looking that portions of the James Bond flick, Quantum of Solace, were filmed here. It’s situated on Cerro Paranal at 2664m above sea level, 120km south of Antofagasta; an…
reviewed
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Parque Nacional Conguillío
The centerpiece of Parque Nacional Conguillío, an Unesco Biosphere Reserve, is the Volcán Llaima (3125m), one of Chile's most active volcanoes. Llaima means ‘Blood Veins’ in Mapudungun and that’s just what tourists visiting the park got on New Year’s Day 2008. Since 1640, Llaima has experienced 35 violent eruptions. In other words, this monster likes to cough up blood.
Despite the firespitting, this wonderful park, created in 1950 primarily to preserve the araucaria (monkey puzzle tree) and 608sq km of alpine lakes, deep canyons and native forests, has reopened.
You can access Parque Nacional Conguillío from three directions. The first, and shortest (80km), is…
reviewed
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Huilo-Huilo Reserva Natural Biosfera
The road to Puerto Fuy on Lago Pirihueico parallels Río Huilo Huilo, which tumbles and falls through awe-inspiring scenery. Huilo-Huilo Reserva Natural Biosfera, encompassing 1000 sq km of private land, has developed the area for low-impact ecotourism and runs two spectacularly insane hotels: La Montaña Mágica, a Frodo-approved spire with a fountain spewing from the top and full of kitschy furniture and supernatural design touches; and the new Hotel Baobob, a Gaudi-inspired inverted cone suspended in the treetops with a restaurant serving international cuisine with Mapuche touches. The reserve offers numerous outdoor adventures (trekking, climbing, mountain biking,…
reviewed
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Mercado Cardonal
As colorful as Valparaíso’s trademark houses – and built almost as high – are the fruit and vegetable displays in the Mercado Cardonal, bordered by Yungay, Av Brasil, Uruguay and Rawson. Ground-floor stalls spill out onto the street, while upstairs is taken up by cheap seafood restaurants. Whole families of cats are on constant leftover-fish patrol.
reviewed
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Isla Magdalena
Isla Magdalena has thriving Magellanic penguin colonies. Five-hour tours on the Melinka ferry land for an hour at the island and depart the port on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday from December through February. Confirm times in advance. Book tickets through Turismo Comapa ([tel] 200-200; www.comapa.com; Magallanes 990) and bring a picnic.
reviewed
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Museo de Colchagua
Along with dealing arms, Carlos Cardoen has made a name for himself as a hard-core collector. The fruit of his passion is the incredible Museo de Colchagua, the largest private museum in Chile. The collection includes pre-Columbian anthropomorphic ceramics from all over Latin America; weapons, religious artifacts and Mapuche silver; and a whole room of huasos cowboy gear. Steam-driven machinery, winemaking equipment and a re-creation of Colchagua’s original train station fill the huge courtyard, and adjoining display rooms showcase old carriages and vintage cars.
reviewed