Things to do in Santiago
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Las Vacas Gordas
Steak, pork, chicken and vegetables sizzle on the giant grill at the front of the clattering main dining area, then dead-pan old-school waiters cart it over to your table. This popular steakhouse is often packed, so reserve or get there early.
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Emporio La Rosa
Choco-chili, strawberry and black pepper, and rose petal are some of the fabulous flavors of this extra-creamy handmade ice cream, which has been known to cause addiction. Flaky pains-au-chocolat and squishy focaccia sandwiches are two more reasons to plonk yourself at the chrome tables.
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Palacio de la Moneda
Chile's presidential offices are in the Palacio de la Moneda. The ornate neoclassical building was designed by Italian architect Joaquín Toesca in the late 18th century, and was originally the official mint – its name means 'the coin.' The north facade was badly damaged by air-force missile attacks during the 1973 military coup when President Salvador Allende – who refused to leave – was overthrown here. A monument honoring Allende now stands opposite in Plaza de la Constitución.
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Astrid y Gastón
The seasonally changing menu of Peruvian haute cuisine has made this one of Santiago's most critically acclaimed restaurants. The warm but expert waitstaff happily talk you through the chef's subtle, modern take on traditional ceviches, chupes (fish stews) and cochinillo (suckling pig), all beautifully presented. The barman deserves an ovation for his complex cocktails: Peruvian pisco comes with physalis juice in the Aquaymanto, for example.
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Ocean Pacific’s
From brass-rimmed portholes to fish tanks and a massive fiberglass whale skeleton, they’ve gone all out on under-the-sea decor here. The menu should come as no surprise then, not least because they’ve illustrated it with photos of each fishy dish. The kitsch factor is reason enough to come, but the massive seafood platters and traditional fish stews are surprisingly good, too.
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Teatro Municipal
This exquisite neoclassical building is the most prestigious performing-arts venue in the city. It's home to the Ballet de Santiago and also hosts world-class opera, tango and classical music performances.
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Bravíssimo Gelateria
The ice cream at this popular chain comes in colors as lurid as its sign, but it still goes down a treat on a hot day.
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La Chascona
When poet Pablo Neruda needed a secret hideaway to spend time with his mistress Matilde Urrutia, he built La Chascona (loosely translated as 'messy hair'), the name inspired by her unruly curls. Neruda, of course, was a great lover of the sea, so the dining room is modeled on a ship's cabin and the living room on a lighthouse. Guided tours take you through the history of the building and the collection of colored glass, shells, furniture and artworks by famous friends that fills it – sadly much more was lost when the house was ransacked during the dictatorship. The Fundación Neruda, which maintains Neruda's houses, has its headquarters here and runs a lovely cafe and gift…
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Iglesia de San Francisco
The first stone of the austere Iglesia de San Francisco was laid in 1586, making it Santiago's oldest surviving colonial building. Its sturdy walls have weathered some powerful earthquakes, although the current clock tower, finished in 1857, is the fourth. On the main altar look for the carving of the Virgen del Socorro (Our Lady of Perpetual Help), which Santiago's founder Pedro de Valdivia brought to Chile on his 1540 conquistador mission to protect him from attacks.
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Patagonia
No prizes for working out where the star ingredients at this cozy wood-lined restaurant come from. Harder to predict are the combinations the Argentine chefs cook them into: Patagonian lamb comes in a calafate (berry) sauce, rainbow trout is dressed in smoked goat cheese, and the brownies come with a Cabernet coulis. Wild boar and venison are also on the cards, but there’s also a plain old parrillada (mixed grill) if you’re not feeling, um, game.
reviewed
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Restaurant Majestic
The chef at Santiago’s only Indian restaurant is Bangladeshi and the menu revolves around rich northern dishes like Rogan Josh, tandoori meats and breads. There’s a good selection of vegetarian curries, but let them know if you like yours hot. Predictably decorated with elephant statues and batik tablecloths, it’s inside the Majestic Hotel.
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Etniko
Etniko is the in place of the moment - and boy, does it know it. It is pretty funky, mind you, with a sleek, low-lit central courtyard, a DJ at the turntables, and the atmosphere abuzz with media gossip and goings-on. Being hip comes at a price, of course, and being seen with the in-crowd ain't cheap.
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Viña Aquitania
Set at the foot of the Andes is Santiago's most interesting winery. Aquitania works with tiny quantities and sky-high quality. From Grecia metro station (Línea 4), take bus D07 south from bus stop 6 and get off at the intersection of Av Los Presidentes and Consistorial (you need a Bip! card). Aquitania is 150m south. Note that Viña Cousiño Macul is located only 2km away.
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Tiramisú
Bright murals, rough-hewn tables and cheerful red-checked cloths set the tone at this busy pizzeria that's perennially popular with locals. You'll spend more time choosing one of the myriad thin-crust pizzas than wolfing it down.
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Las Lanzas
Neon lighting and no-frills furniture that hasn’t changed much since the ’70s are part of the charm of this Ñuñoa mainstay. Rock-bottom prices mean it’s usually full right up to closing, especially in the summer, when revelers spill out onto the sidewalk terrace.
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El Huerto
This earthy restaurant's healthy, vegetarian-focused fare is a big hit with both hip young things and ladies who lunch. Come for egg-white omelets, strawberry smoothies, quinoa salads and wonderfully rich desserts with café au lait.
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Café del Patio
Locals rave about the superfresh vegetarian specialties at this cute eatery, where the best tables are clustered in a brightly painted courtyard. As well as tofu- and seitan-based stir-fries, there are salads, sandwiches and a few fish options.
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Museo Nacional de Historia Natural
If your kids have a taste for the bizarre, check out the dusty stuffed animals (we’re talking taxidermy, not teddies) in the Museo Nacional de Historia Natural, where displays look almost as old as the fossils they contain.
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Viña Cousiño Macul
A pretty winery set in Santiago's urban sprawl. Most of the vineyards are now at Buin, but tours take in the production process and underground bodega, built in 1872. It's a 2.25km walk or a quick taxi ride from the metro.
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La Vega Central
Raspberries, quinces, figs, peaches, persimmons, custard apples… if it grows in Chile, you’ll find it at La Vega Central. Go early to see the hollering vendors in full swing.
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OH! Salad Garden
Calorie-counters swear by this inexpensive and healthy lunchtime buffet, where a team of chefs washes, tosses and stirs an impressive range of salad dishes.
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Cine Hoyts
Modern multiplex showing mainstream movies. Also in: Estación Central (Exposición 155; Estación Central) and San Agustín (Moneda 835, Centro; Santa Lucía).
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Viña Concha y Toro
To see winemaking on a vast scale, do one of the mass-market tours at Viña Concha y Toro.
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Cerro San Cristóbal
Bellavista entrance (Pío Nono 450, Barrio Bellavista; Baquedano); Providencia entrance (Av Pedro de Valdivia & El Cerro, Providencia; Pedro de Valdivia) The best sweeping views over Santiago are from the peaks and viewpoints of the Parque Metropolitano, better known as Cerro San Cristóbal. At 722 hectares, the park is Santiago's largest green space, but it's still decidedly urban: a funicular carries you between different landscaped sections, and roads through it are aimed at cars rather than hikers. The park lies north of Bellavista and Providencia and has entrances in both neighborhoods.
A snowy white 14m-high statue of the Virgen de la Inmaculada Concepción towers…
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Liguria
A legend on the Santiago restaurant circuit, Liguria mixes equal measures of bar and bistro perfectly. Stewed rabbit or silverside in batter are chalked up on a blackboard, then dapper old-school waiters place them on the red-checked tablecloths with aplomb. Vintage adverts, Chilean memorabilia and old bottles decorate the wood-paneled inside, but it’s the sidewalk tables that diners really fight over – even on weeknights you should book ahead.
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