Restaurants in Santiago
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Las Vacas Gordas
The name means ‘fat cows’ and cow-print paint plasters the outside walls and pavement: if it once said ‘moo,’ it’s on the menu and in hefty portions, too. Your steak sizzles on the giant grill at the front of the clattering main dining area, then dead-pan old-school waiters cart it over to your table. It’s usually packed, so reserve or get there very early.
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Emporio La Rosa
Choco-chilli, strawberry and black pepper, and rose petal are some of the fabulous flavors of this extra-creamy handmade ice cream, which has been known to cause addiction. Flaky pains-au-chocolat and squishy focaccia sandwiches are two more reasons to plonk yourself at the chrome tables.
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Astrid y Gastón
The seasonally changing menu of Peruvian haute cuisine has made this one of Santiago’s most critically acclaimed restaurants. The warm but expert waitstaff happily talk you through the chef’s subtle, modern take on traditional ceviches, chupes (fish stews) and chochinillo (suckling pig), all beautifully presented. The barman deserves an ovation for his complex cocktails: Peruvian pisco comes with physalis juice in the Aquaymanto, for example.
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Liguria
A legend on the Santiago restaurant circuit, Liguria mixes equal measures of bar and bistro perfectly. Stewed rabbit or silverside in batter are chalked up on a blackboard, then dapper old-school waiters place them on the red-checked tablecloths with aplomb. Vintage adverts, Chilean memorabilia and old bottles decorate the wood-paneled inside, but it’s the sidewalk tables that diners really fight over – even on weeknights you should book ahead.
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Ocean Pacific’s
From brass-rimmed portholes to fish tanks and a massive fiberglass whale skeleton, they’ve gone all out on under-the-sea decor here. The menu should come as no surprise then, not least because they’ve illustrated it with photos of each fishy dish. The kitsch factor is reason enough to come, but the massive seafood platters and traditional fish stews are surprisingly good, too.
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Bravíssimo Gelateria
The ice cream at this popular chain comes in colors as lurid as its sign, but it still goes down a treat on a hot day.
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Patagonia
No prizes for working out where the star ingredients at this cozy wood-lined restaurant come from. Harder to predict are the combinations the Argentine chefs cook them into: Patagonian lamb comes in a calafate (berry) sauce, rainbow trout is dressed in smoked goat cheese, and the brownies come with a Cabernet coulis. Wild boar and venison are also on the cards, but there’s also a plain old parrillada (mixed grill) if you’re not feeling, um, game.
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Restaurant Majestic
The chef at Santiago’s only Indian restaurant is Bangladeshi and the menu revolves around rich northern dishes like Rogan Josh, tandoori meats and breads. There’s a good selection of vegetarian curries, but let them know if you like yours hot. Predictably decorated with elephant statues and batik tablecloths, it’s inside the Majestic Hotel.
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Tiramisú
Bright murals, rough-hewn tables and cheerful red-checked cloths set the tone at this busy pizzeria. You’ll spend more time choosing one of the myriad thin-crust pizzas than wolfing it down – consider the gamberetti, which combines buffalo mozzarella and prawns.
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El Huerto
This earthy restaurant’s changing vegetarian fare is a big hit with both hip young things and ladies who lunch. Some dishes err on the stodgy side, but most are fresh and tasty. Next door, smaller Café La Huerta does salads and sandwiches on weekdays.
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Café del Patio
Locals rave about the superfresh vegetarian specialties at this cute eatery, where the best tables are clustered in a brightly painted courtyard. As well as tofu- and seitan-based stir-fries, there are salads, sandwiches and a few fish options.
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Normandie
With its varnished wood paneling and deadpan waiters, Normandie strives hard to look like a typical French café. The food is equally Gallic: think well-executed classics like lapin en gibelotte (rabbit in red wine) or duck à l’orange.
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OH! Salad Garden
Calorie-counters swear by this inexpensive and healthy lunchtime buffet, where a team of chefs washes, tosses and stirs an impressive range of salad dishes.
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Akarana
Orange-infused water and hunks of homemade bread with peppery olive oil keep you busy while you wait for the creative but unpretentious fare that have made this bright New Zealand–run restaurant one of Santiago’s best. Even the dishes’ names are inventive: Bambi on the Grill is venison in a redcurrant glaze. Potted olive trees decorate the huge, inviting terrace, which is shaded by canvas umbrellas in the day and lit by oil lamps at night.
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Café Bistro de la Barra
Worn old floor tiles, a velvet sofa, 1940s swing and light fittings made from cups and teapots make a quirky-but-pretty backdrop for some of the best brunches and onces in town. The rich sandwiches include salmon-filled croissants or Parma ham and arugula on flaky green olive bread, but make sure you save room for the perfectly firm, berry-drenched cheesecake.
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Opera
From the first mouthful of foie gras to the last smear of crème brulée, the food at Opera bears the mark of classic French cooking, but it’s made with the best Chilean ingredients. Hefty mains include lamb shank in a Cabernet reduction or the perfectly pink veal ribchop in a buttery béarnaise. The upstairs sister bar, Catedral, does simpler but equally excellent food.
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Bar Nacional
From the chrome counter to the waitstaff of old timers, this fuente de soda is as vintage as they come. It has been churning out Chilean specialties like pastel de jaiva (crab pie) and lomo a lo pobre (steak and fries topped with fried egg) for years. There’s a second branch, Bar Nacional 2 ([tel] 696-5986), at Paseo Huérfanos 1151.
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Galindo
Retro neon signs adorn the wood-backed bar at this long-running local favorite, which is usually packed with noisy but appreciative crowds. It’s easy to see why: unlike the precious restaurants around it, Galindo’s all about sizzling parrilladas (mixed grills), burgers and fries, and hearty Chilean staples washed down with freshly pulled pints.
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Mercado Central
Santiago’s wrought-iron fish market is a classic for long lunches (or hangover-curing fish-stew breakfasts). Skip the overpriced tourist traps in the middle, and make for one of the tiny, low-key stalls around the edge, such as the cheap and friendly Pailas Denisse ([tel] 672-2926) at Local 16, where you can pick up tasty meals (CH$2500 to CH$3500).
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Pinpilinpausha
There’s a friendly, family feel to this Basque restaurant. The trademark fish dishes typically involve heavy sauces – try the merluza austral (hake in creamy artichoke) or corvina a la Donostiarra (a peppery sea bass). Add fuel to the fire by ordering a rich crema catalana (Spanish-style crème brulée) for dessert.
reviewed
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Off the Record
In-the-know Santiguinos dine at Off the Record, including some political top brass (Michelle Bachelet for one). Its charm lies in the relaxed, classy atmosphere, all-wood furnishings, mirrors, and art displays from local artists. The food is just as enticing - feast on the gorgeous crab crepes. It often hosts cultural and artistic events.
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Azul Profundo
Even the best Chilean seafood restaurants feel obliged to publicize their specialty by going all-out on the maritime decor. But overlook Azul Profundo’s humdrum nets and telescopes and focus on its fabulously inventive food, like grilled grouper with laurel ice cream, or shellfish served on maizemeal and merquén-infused butter.
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R
The owners of R showed a certain economy of effort with the name, but thankfully don't do the same with the menu. A classy candlelit setting and original dishes (mainly fish) with a Peruvian twist make for a great romantic night out that won't crunch your credit card. There's a reasonable set lunch menu, but it's better in the evening.
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Zully
Situated in the beautiful, ornate Concha y Toro square, this new restaurant has reaped the plaudits among the city's restaurant critics. One meal in its packed, stylishly colorful rooms and you understand why - its excellent international cuisine will satisfy the most demanding of palates. The grilled yellow fin tuna is exquisite.
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Zen
Other Bellavista places may think they can serve sushi, but only this unostentatious minimalist restaurant, situated in one of the neighborhood's more tranquil pockets, really knows how. It's quiet and unassuming, and its wooden panels and typical Japanese tables offer an intimate environment for some memorable dining.
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