Things to do in Northern Patagonia
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Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo
Cerro Castillo’s basalt spires are the crowning centerpiece of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo, a sprawling 1800-sq-km mountain reserve of southern beech forest, 75km south of Coyhaique. The park boasts fine fishing and hiking, along with little foot traffic. Its namesake, the 2700m triple-tier Cerro Castillo, is flanked by three major glaciers on its southern slopes. Hikers can complete a segment of Sendero de Chile with the 16km trail to Campamento Neozelandés. Another recommended four-day trek leaves from Km75, at the north end of the reserve, and goes to Villa Cerro Castillo at the south end via a high route passing glaciers, rivers and lakes.
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Monumento Natural Dos Lagunas
On the road to Paso Alto Coyhaique on the Argentine border, this 181-hectare wetland reserve hosts diverse bird life, including black neck swans, coots and grebes; the area is an ecological transition zone from southern beech forest to semiarid steppe. Orchids abound. A short hiking trail goes to Laguna El Toro while a longer loop flanks the northern edge of Laguna Escondida. Near the reserve’s entrance, Conaf maintains a self-guided nature trail (1km), a campground (per tent CH$3500) and a picnic area. While the park lacks regular public transportation, Coyhaique’s branch of Conaf may be able to offer suggestions for getting there.
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Reserva Nacional Tamango
Boasting Chile’s largest population of endangered huemul deer, Reserva Nacional Tamango protects a 70 sq km transition zone to the Patagonian steppe. Huemul are notoriously shy, but chances of sighting one are better here than anywhere. At the entrance, trails (1.5km to 7km in length) lead to Laguna Elefantina, Laguna Tamanguito and 1722m Cerro Tamango. The reserve is 6km northeast of Cochrane; there is no public transportation to the entrance. At the corner of Colonia and San Valentín, hikers can take Pasaje No 1 north and then east to access trails to the entrance. Cochrane’s Conaf may have trail maps.
reviewed
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Parque Nacional Hornopirén
Relatively unknown and not often accessed, Parque Nacional Hornopirén protects a lush wilderness of alpine terrain. It remains obscure mainly because there’s no public transportation to it and you can’t drive right up to any park entrance. Trails to and in the park are marked but at times hard to follow. Still, it offers great scenery and backcountry escapes. If planning on making an overnight hike, check in with Conaf before departing town.
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Termas del Ventisquero
Located roadside on the Carretera Austral, 6km south of Puyuhuapi, this new miniresort has one big pool and three small pools facing the sound, surrounded by umbrellas and lounge chairs. The water is 36–40°C and there are adequate changing rooms with showers and lockers. Food is not allowed but you can grab a bite at the acclaimed restaurant (mains CH$5000) that serves homemade pasta, fish and quiche, in addition to English teas, espresso and pisco sours.
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Reserva Nacional Jeinemeni
Turquoise lakes and the rusted hues of the steppe mark the rarely visited Reserva Nacional Jeinemeni 52km southwest of Chile Chico. Its unusual wonders range from cave paintings to foxes and flamingos. In the transition zone to the Patagonian steppe, it covers 1610 sq km. Through-hikers can link to Valle Chacabuco via a two-day mountain traverse on Sendero La Leona; for information contact Estancia Valle Chacabuco.
reviewed
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Centro de Ski El Fraile
From June to September, skiers can make turns at the Centro de Ski El Fraile, only 29km south of Coyhaique. A T-bar and pommel lift access 800m of vertical terrain. Experts can hike past the lifts to some bowls with heavy, wet snow and lovely tree-skiing. Rental equipment is available.
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SurAndes
Real coffee and fresh juices perk up tired travelers who bask in this lovely atmospheric café serving fresh omelettes, custom burgers and veggie plates. There are also local crafts for sale and an attractive five-person apartment (CH$14,000 per person) for rent upstairs.
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Café Ricer
Best described as a gringo zoo, this high-priced café occupies soft sheepskin seats and a choice spot on the Plaza de Armas. Offerings are many, from a selection of ice creams to cakes and pies or salmon on a bed of greens. Vegetarians have OK options here.
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Museo Regional de la Patagonia
In town, Museo Regional de la Patagonia catalogues pioneer artifacts and Jesuit regalia. It also houses a fine collection of labeled photographs on regional history, including the construction of part of the Carretera Austral.
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Café Caleta Gonzalo
The Parque Pumalín’s only restaurant is this attractive café with a huge fireplace. Fresh bread, local honey and organic vegetables put it a notch above average. Homemade oatmeal cookies, honey or picnic boxes (CH$5000) are available to go.
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Lito's
Lito's might not look like much, but the service is excellent and the traditional Chilean dishes are consistently well prepared. The fixed-price meal, including a platter full of salad and a good portion of fish or meat, is quite a bargain.
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La Casona
Considered the best restaurant in town, with an intimate family atmosphere and a dose of white-linen formality. The menu features grilled lamb, seafood options and steaks. Palta Victoria, an avocado stuffed with crab, makes a great start.
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Piel Roja
Rumbling with late-night life, this bar swarms with local youths and the occasional adventure guide. The circular bar downstairs is the best place for wallflowers to hide; upstairs becomes a romping dance floor in the wee hours.
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Casino de Bomberos
Call it a cultural experience, this classic but windowless eatery packs with locals downing seafood plates or steak and eggs. The one thing they’re short of is fresh air, with empanadas and French fries sizzling up the griddle.
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Café Confluencia
The town’s best new find, this chic eatery serves heaping bowls of greens and themed dinner nights that bring fresh tacos way south. Mint pisco sours are standouts but teapots and fresh juices are good daytime fixes.
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El Encuentro
Don’t think about the plastic-covered lace tablecloths, this place oozes friendly ambience. A pisco sour starts you off right; meat comes from regional ranches, or there’s salmon or chicken à la crema.
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Patagonia Guide Service
This respected agency runs tours through much of Patagonia with an eye for detail, personalized trips and experienced guides. They speak English, Portuguese and Hebrew and are a top choice for photo safaris.
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Reserva Nacional Coyhaique
Hikers can tread trails in Reserva Nacional Coyhaique, 5km from town: take Baquedano north across the bridge and go right at the gravel road; from the entrance it’s 3km to Laguna Verde.
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Austral Adventures
All-inclusive trips on the Cahuella, a 15m Chilote-style wooden motor cruiser, sailing around Chiloé’s islands and through Pumalín’s fjords. Prices from CH$420,000 to CH$800,000 per person.
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Peña Quilantál
Coyhaique has a surprisingly active nightlife in the summer months. Peña Quilantál features live folk music on weekend nights; shows may start considerably later than advertised.
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Martín Pescador
Serving regional delicacies such as chicken with morel mushrooms, salmon carpaccio or baked crab dishes, this exclusive eatery with a roaring log fire is perfect for a special dinner.
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La Olla
La Olla specializes in Spanish cuisine, including paella. While dinners are a bit pricey, the lunch specials are within reach of most budgets. Credit cards are accepted.
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Patagonia Adventure Expeditions
Run by very knowledgeable US and English expats; organizes kayaking and rafting on many rivers, plus mountaineering expeditions around the region and in Puerto Bertrand.
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Condor Explorer
Gear shop with topo maps and top outdoor brands also has a good guide service doing logistical support for expeditions. Day trips to rock climb or trek go for CH$25,000.
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