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Introducing Lago General Carrera
Split with Argentina (where it’s called Lago Buenos Aires), this massive 224,000-hectare lake is often a wind-stirred green-blue sea in the middle of a sculpted Patagonian steppe. Its rough and twisty roads dwarf the traveler: you’ll feel like you’re crawling through the landscape. This section follows the Carretera Austral south from Coyhaique, around the lake’s western border.
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Just before reaching Balmaceda from Coyhaique, a right-hand turnoff (the sign points to Cochrane) heads toward Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo. The spires of glacier-bound Cerro Castillo tower over some 180, 000 hectares of southern beech forest. In Villa Cerro Castillo (km 104) stay with Don Niba (public phone 067-419-200; Los Pioneros 872; s incl breakfast US$10), guide, storyteller and grandson of pioneers, in a comfortable home with whopping breakfasts. He also offers horse treks and hikes.
Along the western shore, Puerto Río Tranquilo has a petrol station. Boat tours visit Capilla de Mármol (marble chapel) when the water’s calm. North of town an (unfinished) glacier-lined road to Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael bumps toward the coast. Residencial Darka (067-419-500; Arrayanes 330; s/d incl breakfast US$10/20) has a few decent rooms and a friendly owner. Wild camping is possible on the windy beach, or 10km west at Lago Tranquilo.
About 13km east of Cruce El Maitén Puerto Guadal has petrol and provisions. Pitch a tent lakefront, or hunker down at the well-weathered Hostería Huemules (067-431-212; Las Magnolias 382; r per person US$10), attended by its next-door host Don Kemel. No less than legend, he’s sometimes willing to share a tale of navy days in Valparaíso or his youth in Beruit.
Last updated: Mar 2, 2009
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