Things to do in La Serena
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Daniella II
Numero Dos is a plain-faced local favorite serving hearty portions of Chilean comfort food. The fresh seafood is especially tasty.
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swimming beaches
A swathe of wide sandy beaches stretches from La Serena's nonfunctional lighthouse right to Coquimbo: there are so many that you could visit a different beach every day for a two-week vacation. Unfortunately, strong rip currents make some unsuitable for swimming. Safe swimming beaches generally start south of Cuatro Esquinas and include most beaches around Coquimbo. Those between the west end of Av Aguirre and Cuatro Esquinas (ie closer to town) are friskier and generally dangerous for bathers.
Look for the signs 'Playa Apta' (meaning beach safe for swimming) and 'Playa No Apta' (meaning beach not safe for swimming).
A bike path now runs all the way to Coquimbo. For quick …
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Museo Histórico Casa Gabriel González Videla
Although richly stocked with general historical artifacts, this two-storey museum concentrates on one of La Serena’s best-known – and most controversial – sons. González Videla was Chile’s president from 1946 to 1952. Ever the cunning politician, he took power with communist support but then promptly outlawed the party, driving poet Pablo Neruda out of the Senate and into exile. As you might expect, the reverent exhibits omit such episodes. But do pop upstairs for a look at the general historical displays and changing modern-art exhibits.
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water activities
Other popular water activities include sailing (buddy up to a yacht-club member), surfing (hit Playa El Faro with local bodyboarders) and windsurfing (keep an eye on swimmers within 200m of the beach or you'll run afoul of the Gobernación Marítima). Playa Totoralillo, south of Coquimbo, is rated highly for its surf breaks and windsurfing potential.
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Museo Arqueológico
The crescent-shaped archaeological museum makes an ambitious attempt to corral Chile’s pre-Columbian past. Its highlights include Atacameña mummies, a hefty 2.5m-high moai (large anthropomorphic statues) from Easter Island and interesting Diaguita artifacts that include a dinghy made from sea-lion hide.
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Iglesia San Francisco
The granddaddy of all La Serena’s churches is colonial Iglesia San Francisco, two blocks southeast of Plaza de Armas, and built in the early 1600s. It’s a squat stone construction, with a chunky tower and fancy baroque facade.
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Iglesia Santo Domingo
The dainty-looking bell tower of Iglesia Santo Domingo looks as though it should have a twirling ballerina inside. The tower is a later addition, only a century old, though the attractive limestone church dates back to 1755.
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Rapsodia Gastronomía
With several side rooms looking onto the interior courtyard, this old casona (mansion) is home to one of La Serena’s best restaurants. Come for afternoon drinks or later on for occasional live music, tasty salads and sandwiches.
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Iglesia San Agustín
Three blocks east of the Plaza de Armas, the august limestone Iglesia San Agustín was built by the Jesuits in 1755, then passed to the Augustinians after the Jesuits’ expulsion. It has undergone serious modifications.
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Café del Patio
Intimate café-cum-wine-bar in a sheltered patio with a mellow atmosphere. In summer some of Santiago's best jazz musicians perform here; the local bands that play the rest of the year are also worth hearing.
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Kokoro No Niwa
With its trickling brooks, drifting swans and neatly manicured rock gardens, this Japanese garden makes a good escape from the city. It is at the southern end of Parque Pedro de Valdivia.
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Mercado La Recova
Head here for a feast of dried fruits, multicolored jams and other sugary concoctions from the Elqui Valley. There are also plenty of woolens, soapstone ashtrays and musical instruments on offer.
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Donde El Guatón
El Guatón prepares sizzling parrilladas (grilled meats) right before your hungry eyes. The characterful dining area is hung with flowers and chandeliers made from old bicycle wheels.
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Bomberos
Join the local fire brigade for a no-frills set lunch on the upper floor of the fire station. Note the British-made 1874 Merryweather engine downstairs, and browse firemen mugshots upstairs.
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Bavaria
Tucked away in a picturesque courtyard engulfed by flowering vines, this squeaky-clean chain restaurant is especially good for grilled meats and picados (snacks).
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Maui Girl
Maui Girl is located smack-dab in the middle of Playa El Faro, about 3km south of the lighthouse, and rents a board-wetsuit combo for CH$5000 per day.
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Quick Biss
Take your pick from fresh salads, piping-hot grills and mix-and-match accompaniments at this surprisingly good self-service caféteria. Vegetarians do well here.
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Colectivo de Arte Consciente
Conversions are possible – but not mandatory – at this Hare Krishna art collective. Classes range from spirituality lectures to vegetarian cooking courses.
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Grill Bar Serena
This down-to-earth venue is not much to look at but is fast, efficient and offers freshly netted catches of the day and good grills for reasonable prices.
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La Serena School
Offers Spanish courses (CH$22,000 for 2½ hours of instruction with a minimum of five classes), and homestays (CH$12,000 with breakfast and dinner).
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Nightclubs
Nightclubs sparkle along the seafront, past the lighthouse and all the way to Barrio Inglés Coquimbo; they're especially hot during summer.
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Rincón Oriental
A serene chifa (restaurant) in which to escape the busy streets and enjoy excellent noodles, amid oriental screens and fish tanks.
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Boicot
Stay out late drinking on the interior patio, or head over at midday for a cheap fixed lunch (CH$1500) at this popular student bar.
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La Taberna
This seedy-looking bar in a 130-year-old house hosts regular acts, including Chilean folk music on weekend nights from midnight.
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Iglesia Catedral
The handsome neoclassical Iglesia Catedral dates from 1844; it also has a sobering museum of religious art.
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