Things to do in Chiloé
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Feria Municipal
There are an abundance of craft markets in the Feria Municipal. It also contains a municipal tourist office.
reviewed
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Retro’s Pub
- Ancud, Chile
- Restaurants › Pub
This cozy spot rides the fence between restaurant and pub, serving up the usual suspects plus Tex–Mex, killer burgers and a small veggie menu (though we’re not sure what the chicken Caesar salad is doing there). As far as bars go, this is the town classic for an atmospheric drink, a pretty perfect spot in light of the weather.
reviewed
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MAM Chiloé
Castro’s spacious MAM, features innovative works by contemporary Chilean artists, many of them Chilotes. It’s a fair hike from town, but worth it if you’re an art buff.
reviewed
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Años Luz
For a country that doesn’t exactly bowl foodies over with its culinary arts, this sophisticated refuge built around a centerpiece bar made out of an old fishing boat is an exception. Stylistically and gastronomically, it’s worth all the pesos in your wallet. The salmon ceviche is gorgeous; the filet del pueblo (filet with onions, bacon and a fried egg) is perfectly cooked; the house pisco sour (with honey and a cinnamon rim) is a welcomed twist on a classic; and the ice-cold Kunstmann drafts are served in proper beer mugs. Service isn’t exactly swift, but you’ll soon forget. As long as the naysayers claim it’s ‘not Chilota enough,’ there’ll be more for the rest of us.…
reviewed
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Iglesia San Francisco
Italian Eduardo Provasoli chose a marriage of neo-Gothic and Classical architecture in his design for the elaborate Iglesia San Francisco, finished in 1912 to replace an earlier church that burned down (which had replaced an even earlier church that had burned down). One of Chiloé’s Unesco gems, the church once assaulted the vision with its exterior paint job – salmon with violet trim – but it’s in bad need of a touch up these days. Inside, the varnished-wood interior is stunning. It is best to visit on a sunny day – if you are lucky enough – as the interior is more charming illuminated by the rows of stained-glass windows.
reviewed
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Museo Regional de Castro
Eternally in the process of moving to a surprisingly post-modern, cutting-edge hunk of architecture along the waterfront (on which construction has stalled due to lack of funds), this museum, half a block from Plaza de Armas, houses a well-organized collection of Huilliche relics, musical instruments, traditional farm implements and Chilota wooden boat models, and exhibits on the evolution of Chiloé’s towns. Its B&W photographs of the 1960 earthquake help you to understand the impact of the tragic event. The museum’s new waterfront home will be in the Museo y Archivo Municipal building.
reviewed
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Fuerte San Antonio
During the wars of independence, Fuerte San Antonio was Spain’s last Chilean outpost. At the northwest corner of town, late-colonial cannon emplacements look down on the harbor from the early-19th-century remains of the fortress. There’s not much left but a well-preserved wall, but the views and historical significance are impressive. There’s a somewhat secluded beach, Playa Gruesa, behind the north wall.
reviewed
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Don Octavio
You can practically dine on top of the fishing boats at this atmospheric palafito restaurant. There’s way too much mayonnaise on the menu, but in addition to the usual suspects, there’s also king crab and octopus. The curious signature dish, featuring your choice of fish, smothered in a sauce of onions, tomatoes, green peppers and sausage, then buried under a bound of thinly cut fried potatoes, is excellent.
reviewed
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Museo Regional Aurelio Bórquez Canobra
The Museo Regional Aurelio Bórquez Canobra, casually referred to as Museo Chilote, makes Ancud a worthwhile stop in itself. Looking more like a fortress than a museum, it has fantastic displays tracking the history of the island and a full-sized replica of the Ancud, which sailed the treacherous fjords of the Strait of Magellan to claim Chile’s southernmost territories.
reviewed
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Chilo's
This affordable haunt is on the second floor on the corner of Sotomayor and San Martín. The tablecloths may have holes and the service may disappear at times, but it has great local flavor and a menagerie of Castro characters. Get a seat next to the window, watch people strolling along San Martín, have a caldillo de mariscos and chase it with a frosty oversized beer.
reviewed
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Museo Regional de Castro
In the process of moving to a more attractive location along the waterfront, this museum, half a block from Plaza de Armas, houses a well-organized collection of Huilliche relics, musical instruments, traditional farm implements and exhibits on the evolution of Chiloé's towns. Its B&W photographs of the 1960 earthquake help you to understand the impact of the tragic event.
reviewed
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Parque Tantauco
Among the world’s 25 biodiversity hot spots, Parque Tantauco is home to whales, otters, and foxes. For you, it might be a great off-the-beaten-track find for hiking, fly-fishing or watching wildlife. Just created in 2005, you won’t even find it on most maps. The park encompasses 1180 sq km west of Quellón, Chiloe. For more information, check out the park website.
reviewed
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Kaweshkar Lounge
This newcomer prides itself on indie cool: the retro furniture and industrial vogue vibe would be right at home in New York’s East Village. Music is one-part Blur, one part Velvet Underground (DJs visit from Santiago in summer). There’s food, too. The menu features several vegetarian choices and some edgy entrees for Chiloé (salmon crepes with béchamel!).
reviewed
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Sacho
The languages flying through the air at this well-regarded seafood spot evoke the breakroom at the UN, but the food is all Chilota, served in a semi-refined atmosphere (whimsical tablecloths, linen napkins). The specialty is pulmay, a curanto-like shellfish dish featuring clams and mussels, but a little less meat and potatoes.
reviewed
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Feria Artesanal
Castro's waterfront Feria Artesanal has a fine selection of woolen ponchos and sweaters, caps, gloves and basketry. Note the bundles of dried seaweed and the rhubarb-like nalca, both part of the local diet, and the blocks of peat used for fuel. The market contains several inexpensive seafood restaurants which are worth a try.
reviewed
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Casamar
Like many of the restaurants in town, the view is a greater draw than the food, but Casamar does serve dependable Chilean and international fare. At night it becomes a bar and on weekends they bring in a DJ and open up the dance floor. We can't vouch for the quality of the music, but it can be fun after enough drinks.
reviewed
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La Red de Agroturismo
Chiloé Agrotourism association organizes excursions to farming and fishing communities and to private homes that offer meals and lodging in more than a dozen small towns (from Aucar to Tubilidad) that don't make most maps. Similar arrangements can also be made through Residencial María Carolina.
reviewed
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Lumière
This restaurant/bar offers an extensive cocktail and beer list under the watchful eye of classic cinematic scenes. The four-sided bar in the center of the room makes a nice spot to plant yourself. They serve the usual fare (mains CH$2500 to CH$5500), plus popcorn, just like the movies.
reviewed
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Austral Adventures
Once recommended as your one-stop shop for English-speaking tours of the archipelago, Austral Adventures has shifted its focus to two- to three-day private tours arranged in advance, icing out the independent walk-ins. It still does good work, just to a smaller, more exclusive public.
reviewed
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La Hormiguita
This delightful little bakery serves massive sandwiches (damn near impossible to eat without looking like a bumbling fool), pies, fruit juices and a few veggie choices. It alternates days serving lunch and dinner, so it’s best to turn up and see where they’re at in the cycle.
reviewed
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El Sacho
This is just a little hole-in-the-wall lunch counter, but it serves up heaping, inexpensive plates of excellent seafood matched only by its loads of local character. If you want to branch out from curanto, the cazuela chilota (seafood stew) deserves a try.
reviewed
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La Tavolata
So you heard all about Chiloé's famous seafood and after a few days of nonstop mussels, fish and crab, all you can think about is some good old-fashioned pizza. La Tavolata has not only a variety of good pizzas and homemade pastas, but a few vegetarian choices too.
reviewed
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Turismo Pehuén
Turismo Pehuén is a highly regarded agency that organizes tours to nearby islands such as Mechuque (CH$20,000), Parque Nacional Chiloé (CH$10,000) and whale-watching in March and April (CH$60,000). It was said to be opening an outlet in Ancud as well.
reviewed
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Patagón Chiloé
This agency is a better bet for independent travelers and walk-ups. They do excursions all over Chiloé, but you’re more likely to use them to visit the penguin colonies. They offer three trips out per day for CH$20,000 per person with discounts for groups.
reviewed
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Kuranton
This institution has an extensive menu of seafood, but it’s all about the curanto, Chiloé’s gastronomic bombshell. This hearty stew of mussels, clams, chicken, pork and three types of potatoes is a meal fit for hibernation. Don’t miss it.
reviewed
