Religious, Spiritual sights in Central America
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Estelí Cathedral
Although Estelí's most impressive attractions are in the mountains surrounding the 'Diamond of the Segovias,' the 1823 Estelí Cathedral is worth a wander, and the murals surrounding the parque central (central park) are interesting as well. Several parks display petroglyphs that were brought down here from the mountains in the early 1900s, many of which are now badly damaged.
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Cathedral de Granada
The Cathedral de Granada, on the east side of the plaza, was originally built in 1583 but has been destroyed countless times since. This most recent version, built in 1915, has four chapels; a dozen stained-glass panels are set into the dome.
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Pascual Abaj & Morería
On a hilltop south of the town, Pascual Abaj is a shrine to the Mayan earth god Huyup Tak'ah (Mountain Plain). Said to be hundreds - perhaps thousands - of years old, the stone-faced idol has suffered numerous indignities at the hands of outsiders, but local people still revere it. Chuchkajauescome regularly to offer incense, food, cigarettes, flowers, liquor, Coca-Cola, and perhaps even to sacrifice a chicken, in thanks and hope for the Earth's continuing fertility.
Sacrifices do not take place at regular hours. If you're in luck, you may witness one. The worshipers will not mind if you watch, but be sure to request permission before taking any photos and don't assume it…
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Capilla Medalla Milagrosa
Built in 1904 by an order of French nuns and modeled after their church in Paris, the small Gothic-style Capilla Medalla Milagrosa is one of San Miguel's best attractions. It's a sublime place, set in the middle of large tree-filled grounds, with a high arched ceiling (painted baby blue) and famously gorgeous stained windows.
The altar is populated with flowers and statues of saints, most prominently the Virgin Mary, who has a neon crown and displays the words - also in neon - María, concebida sin pecado, rogad por nos que recurrimos a vos (Mary, conceived without sin, pray for us who have recourse to thee). The saying comes from the namesake 'Miraculous Medal,' which w…
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Iglesia El Rosario
What appears from the outside like a dilapidated airport hangar is, in fact, one of the most intriguing churches in the country. After entering through an easy-to-miss corridor, you'll see that Iglesia El Rosario opens into a shallow nave backed by a high brick wall and soaring arched roof above. The roof isn't a true arch, though, but a series of overhanging steps inset with a rainbow of stained-glass panels.
On the walls are figures made of scrap metal, with larger, more detailed stone and metal statues displayed in the wings on either side of the main entrance. Besides the simple beauty of the place, the contrasts are striking - the modern industrial-style artwork, the…
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Iglesia de San José
Iglesia de San José protects the famous Altar de Oro (Golden Altar), which was about the only thing of value salvaged after Henry Morgan sacked Panamá Viejo. According to local legend, when word came of the pirate's impending attack, a priest attempted to disguise the altar by painting it black. The priest told Morgan that the famous altar had been stolen by another pirate, and even convinced Morgan to donate handsomely for its replacement.
Morgan is said to have told the priest, 'I don't know why, but I think you are more of a pirate than I am.' Whatever the truth, the baroque altar was later moved from the old city to the present site.
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Baha'i House of Worship
On the outskirts of Panama City, 11km from the city center on the Transisthmian Hwy, the white-domed Baha'i House of Worship looms like a giant egg atop the crest of a hill. The inside is surprisingly beautiful, with a fresh breeze always present. The Baha'i House of Worship serves all of Latin America.
Information about the faith is available at the temple in English and Spanish; readings from the Baha'i writings (also in English and Spanish) are held Sunday mornings at 10:00. Any bus to Colón can let you off on the highway, but it's a long walk up the hill. A taxi from Panama City costs around USaround US$10.
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Iglesia de San Blas
In Parque Central, a major town landmark, is the attractive white colonial Iglesia de San Blas, which dates back to the mid-17th century. The appealingly peaceful, wood-beamed church is under continuous restoration, and its mosaic tiles are crumbling, but it can be visited when mass is not in session. It has a small collection of colonial religious artifacts, or have a look at the wooden Jesus with articulated joints and bleeding stigmata. The park outside is an inviting spot to people-watch from one of the shady stone benches.
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Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María
The pleasant Parque Central frames a modern church, Iglesia Inmaculada Concepción de María. The park is also the seasonal hangout of the Nicaraguan grackle, a tone-deaf bird that enjoys eating parrot eggs and annoying passers-by with its grating calls.
If this iglesia doesn't cut it for religious splendor, walk six blocks northeast of the park along Avenida Central where you'll find the oldest church in town, popularly called La Agonía (though maps show it as La Iglesia de la Ermita de la Resurección).
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Cathedral
The city's soaring cathedral dates from the 18th century, but was substantially re-modeled in 1988. Today, the entire ceiling is made of polished mahogany, the walls are adorned with near-life-size figures of saints and large, vivid stained-glass windows depict momentous events in the life of Jesus, and the stations of the cross are marked by 4m teak crosses and intricately carved figurines. Unlike many cathedrals that impress through ostentation, this one is striking for its elegant simplicity and fine balance of gold and wood.
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Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción
To the east of Parque Central is Iglesia de la Inmaculada Concepción, built in 1797 and still in use. Opposite the church steps you can take a break and watch old men playing checkers at the park tables while weddings and funerals come and go. The church's thick-walled, squat construction is attractive in a Volkswagen Beetle sort of way. The solid shape has withstood the earthquakes that have damaged or destroyed almost all the other buildings in Costa Rica that date from this time.
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Templo del Señor Juayúa
Juayúa's white-washed church - the Templo del Señor Juayúa - is famous for its crucifix: the 'Cristo Negro,' carved by Quirio Cataño in the late 16th century and displayed prominently at the back of the nave. It is the object of a great deal of worship and pilgrimage - you can climb a set of stairs behind the altar for a closer look. On your way out, don't miss the beautiful stained-glass windows along the walls, representing the 14 stages of the cross.
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Catedral Metropolitana
The Catedral Metropolitana, facing Parque Central, was constructed between 1782 and 1815 (the towers were finished in 1867). It has survived earthquake and fire well, though the quake of 1917 did substantial damage and the one in 1976 did even more. Its heavy proportions and sparse ornamentation don't make for a particularly beautiful building, but it does have a certain stateliness, and the altars are worth a look.
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Basílica de Nuestra Señora de Los Ángeles
The most important site in Cartago – and the most venerated religious site in the country – this basilica channels any airy Byzantine grace, with fine stained-glass windows and ornate side chapels featuring carved wood altars. Though the structure has changed many times since 1635, when it was first built, the relic that it protects remains unharmed inside.
La Negrita, ‘the Black Virgin,’ is a small (less than a meter tall), probably indigenous, representation of the Virgin Mary, found on this spot on August 2, 1635 by a native woman. As the story goes, when she tried to take the statuette with her, it miraculously reappeared back where she’d found it. Twice. So the t…
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Basílica de Suyapa
The most important church in Tegucigalpa, and therefore in Honduras, is the Gothic Basílica de Suyapa.La Virgen de Suyapa is the patron saint of Honduras; in 1982 a papal decree made her the patron saint of all Central America. Construction of the basilica, which is famous for its large stained-glass windows, began in 1954; finishing touches were still being added when we visited.
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Iglesia San Francisco
The oldest church in Central America and the most striking building in Granada (that is to say, Nicaragua) boasts the big robin-egg-blue birthday cake facade of Iglesia San Francisco, which, incidentally, houses the best museum in the region. Originally constructed in 1585, it was subsequently burnt to the ground by pirates and later William Walker, rebuilt most recently in 1868 and restored in 1989.
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Iglesia Santa Lucia
Constructed in 1853, this church is one of Suchitoto's colonial gems. Its facade features exquisite arches with molded keystones and six huge columns. Two statuesque towers loom down from above (both chime - one with a bell and the other with metal bars) and an antique clock sits in between. The wood-paneled interior is well preserved and worth a prayer.
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Iglesia El Rosario
What appears to be a dilapidated airport hangar is actually one of the most intriguing churches in the country. Opening into a shallow nave, the arched roof soars above. Beautifully simple, figures of scrap metal and stone create an industrial ambience which contrasts strikingly to its peaceful austerity and the gritty bustle of downtown San Salvador.
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Iglesia de Santo Tomás
Dating from 1540, this church is often the scene of religious rituals that are only slightly Catholic and more distinctly Mayan. For much of the day (especially on Sunday), the path to the church smolders with incense of copal resin, while indigenous prayer leaders swing censers (usually tin cans poked with holes) and chant magic words.
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Catedral de Santa Ana
The most notable sight in Santa Ana is its large neo-Gothic cathedral, which was completed in 1913. Exquisite ornate mouldings cover the church's entire front and the high arches enhance a sense of stillness and spaciousness. A spooky figure of the city's patron saint, Nuestra Señora de Santa Ana, greets you as you enter.
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Iglesia
La Libertad's church has a sad corrugated cement exterior surrounded by a high steel fence and is surprisingly easy to miss. The inside is a slight improvement (albeit varnished plywood sealing the nave) with some wooden pews and small statues adorning the walls. As far as La Libertad's sights go, this is it. Sigh.
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La Agonía
Walking six blocks northeast of the park along Av Central brings you to the oldest church in town, popularly called La Agonía (although maps show it as La Iglesia de la Ermita de la Resurección). Strolling to La Agonía and around the surrounding blocks makes a fine walk.
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Parroquia El Calvario
Parroquia El Calvario is a squat colonial structure with no spire, most remarkable for the extra-gory statues of Jesus and the thieves being crucified, right at the entrance. Those are original - the rest had to be remodeled after the earthquake of 2000.
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Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Paz
Facing Parque David J Guzmán, Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Paz is San Miguel's cathedral and dates from the 18th century. It was heavily damaged during the civil war.
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Parroquia de La Asunción
At the center of it all is the 1750 Parroquia de La Asunción, an attractive but scarred late- Baroque beauty that the Spanish government has offered to help repair.
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