Other entertainment in Caribbean Islands
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Casa de la Trova
Nearly 40 years after its initial incarnation, Santiago’s shrine to the power of traditional music is still going strong and continuing to attract big names such as Buena Vista Social Club singer, Eliades Ochoa. Warming up on the ground floor in the late afternoon, the action slowly gravitates upstairs where, come 10-ish, everything starts to get a shade more caliente. Arrive with a good pair of shoes and prepare to be – quite literally – whisked off your feet.
reviewed
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Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville
This corporate franchise has turned getting drunk into big business. As with its counterparts in Montego Bay and Negril, the music is too loud and the drinks are too expensive, but some people find the orchestrated good-time vibe to be irresistible. The menu aims for the lowest common denominator with selections including the artery-clogging ‘Cheeseburger in Paradise’ and Caesar salads, pizzas and sandwiches.
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Caribbean Coffee & Tea
Tucked into Plaza Andalucia, a small strip mall, this café is popular with a young upscale crowd from the surrounding Los Angeles–like neighborhood. While there’s nothing to see other than a busy intersection, sitting at one of the outdoor tables sipping a cappuccino (US$2) or tea (US$1.50) is a pleasant way to while away an afternoon. Wraps (US$10), paninis (US$7) and salads (US$6) are also available.
reviewed
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Casa de las Tradiciones
The most discovered ‘undiscovered’ spot in Santiago still retains its smoke-filled, foot-stomping, front-room feel. Hidden in the gentile Tivolí district, some of Santiago de Cuba’s most exciting ensembles, singers and soloists take turns improvising. Friday nights are reserved for straight-up, classic trova, à la Ñico Saquito and the like.
reviewed
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Teatro Nacional de Cuba
One of the twin pillars of Havana’s cultural life, the Teatro Nacional de Cuba on Plaza de la Revolución is the modern rival to the Gran Teatro in Centro Habana. Built in the 1950s as part of Jean Forestier’s grand city expansion, the complex hosts landmark concerts, foreign theater troupes, La Colmenita children’s company and the Ballet Nacional de Cuba. The main hall, Sala Avellaneda, stages big events such as musical concerts or plays by Shakespeare, while the smaller Sala Covarrubias along the back side puts on a more daring program (the seating capacity of the two salas combined is 3300). The 9th floor is a rehearsal and performance space where the newest, mos…
reviewed
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La Bodeguita del Medio
Made famous thanks to the rum-swilling exploits of Ernest Hemingway (who by association instantly sends the prices soaring), a visit to Havana’s most celebrated bar has become de rigueur for literary sycophants and wannabe writers. Past visitors have included Salvador Allende, Fidel Castro, Nicolás Guillén, Harry Belafonte and Nat King Cole, all of whom have left their autographs on La Bodeguita’s wall – along with thousands of others. These days the clientele is less luminous, with package tourists bussed in from Varadero to delight in the bottled bohemian atmosphere and the CUC$4 mojitos (which, though good, have lost their Hemingway-esque shine). The menu specialty is …
reviewed
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Estadio Quisqueya
One of the better places to see a game and experience the madness is at the home field for two of the DR’s six professional teams, Licey (www.licey.com) and Escogido (www.escogido). You can get tickets to most games by arriving at the stadium shortly before the first inning; games between rivals Licey and Escogido or Licey and the Águilas sell out more quickly. Asking for the best seats available at the box office is likely to cost US$18 and put you within meters of either the ballplayers or the between innings dancers. Scalpers also congregate along the road to the stadium and at the entrance.
reviewed
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Sala de Fiesta Macumba Habana
Cocooned in a residential neighborhood southwest of Cubanacán is Macumba, one of Havana’s biggest venues for live salsa. The outdoor setting is refreshing and the sets long, so you’ll get a lot of dancing in. You can also dine at La Giradilla in the same complex. This is a great place to catch jazz-salsa combos and timba music, a modern extension of salsa mixed with jazz and rap and championed by NG La Banda (who perform here regularly).
reviewed
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Gallera
For those interested in one of the quintessential Dominican experiences, Las Terrenas has a gallera, located on Calle Principal just past Plaza Rosada. There are around a dozen matchups per night. Tourists are welcome, but the fights are certainly not watered down and betting is still an integral part of the event. Volunteers help explain the rules, strategy and wagering to cockfight neophytes.
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Banana Dang
Set up in 2007 by two committed coffee and banana addicts from LA, Banana Dang comes pretty close to delivering the best shots of caffeine on the island. Next door to the Lazy Parrot Inn in the hills above Rincón, it’s well worth stopping off here to – in the words of the owners – think, drink and link (yes, there are computer terminals and wi-fi access). The banana smoothies are pretty memorable too.
reviewed
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Casa del Vino Don Juan
Wine-tasting in Las Tunas probably sounds about as credible as food rationing in Beverley Hills, yet here it is; and only seven pesos for a shot of Cuba’s – er – finest wine, the slightly vinegary Soroa (red or white). The Don Juan is a down-to-earth corner bar with large open doors, a handful of tables and only one product on sale. Go just to say you’ve been there.
reviewed
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Hispaniola Hotel & Casino
This large hotel on the Malecón has a casino. It generally opens at 4pm and closes at 4am. Bets may be placed in Dominican pesos or US dollars. Las Vegas odds and rules generally apply, though there are some variations; it doesn’t hurt to ask the dealer what differences he or she is aware of before you start laying down money. All of the dealers at this casino speak Spanish and English.
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Hotel Santo Domingo
This large hotel on the Malecón has a casino. It generally opens at 4pm and closes at 4am. Bets may be placed in Dominican pesos or US dollars. Las Vegas odds and rules generally apply, though there are some variations; it doesn’t hurt to ask the dealer what differences he or she is aware of before you start laying down money. All of the dealers at this casino speak Spanish and English.
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Paco Cabana Restaurant/Bar
Located just west of the main intersection in town, Paco Cabana makes great use of its beachside location. Beds and comfortable couches piled with pillows make for a breezy and beautiful place to lounge late into the night. The vibe is sophisticated Miami and, while drinks are the draw, there’s a kitchen that serves everything from basics such as hamburgers (US$8.50) to lobster (US$18).
reviewed
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Segafredo Zanetti Espresso
One of a number of cafés lining this cobblestoned alleyway, Segafredo stands out because of its cool indoor bar, which wouldn’t be out of place in a trendy neighborhood of New York or Paris. You can lounge around with a mixed drink (US$4.50) on one of the day beds or retreat to a nook in the back. Crepes, paninis and other morsels are also served inside and out.
reviewed
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Conjunto Folklórico Nacional de Cuba
Founded in 1962, this high-energy ensemble specializes in Afro-Cuban dancing (all of the drummers are Santería priests). See them perform, and dance along during the regular Sábado de Rumba at El Gran Palenque. This group also performs at Teatro Mella. A major festival called FolkCuba unfolds here biannually during the second half of January.
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Palenque de los Congos Reales
A must for rumba fans, this open patio on Trinidad’s music alley has an eclectic menu incorporating salsa, son (Cuban popular music) and trova (traditional poetic singing). The highlight, however, is the 10pm rumba drums with soulful African rhythms and energetic fire-eating dancers.
reviewed
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Atarazana 9
Just off Plaza España on a cobblestone alleyway, Atarazana 9 feels like a cool neighborhood bar where regulars get served their favorite beers without asking; tourists wandering in after a meal in the Zona Colonial are equally welcome. There’s a stage as well, where live music is sometimes performed.
reviewed
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Guácara Taína
A somewhat legendary nightclub, now maybe at least as popular with cruise-ship passengers as Dominicans, Guácara Taína is still an interesting place to party. Located inside a huge underground cave in the Parque Mirado del Sur, this club hosts everything from raves to live merengue and hip-hop acts.
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Sylvio Cator Stadium
Soccer matches are regularly played at Sylvio Cator Stadium. It hosts international matches as well as being the home ground for Port-au-Prince’s two main clubs, Racing Club Hätien and Violette Athletic. The atmosphere can be frenzied, with lots of music, drumming and Prestige beer.
reviewed
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Jubilee
A long-standing hot spot, this nightclub in the Jaragua Hotel continues to draw in good-looking, well-heeled and well-dressed hordes looking to get down to live merengue music; most nights it doesn’t get hopping until around midnight. Drink bills can be pretty steep at the end of a long evening.
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Bar La Fontana di Trevi
Could it be that the lounge trend has hit Santiago de Cuba? You might think so walking into this cocoon off José A Saco with low stools grouped around individual tables lining the wall. Just don’t order any apple martinis; it’s strictly peso beer and rum at this cool saloon.
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El Viejo Jack
This liquor-store-cum-bar is full of enormous glass cases of dust-free premium booze, which Jarabacoa’s elite quaff by the bottleful. Balloon wine glasses give a certain panache to sharing an entire bottle of cognac with friends. Big-screen projection TV too, and the beer is icy cold.
reviewed
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Haagen-Dazs
We know it’s a Haagen-Dazs, but this modern, sleek and most importantly air-conditioned place is an oasis for those foolhardy enough to walk along this sun-baked stretch of asphalt. Shakes ($5), ice-cream sodas ($4), ice coffees ($3) and, of course, plain old ice cream are available.
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Centro Cultural Los Beatles
Just as the West fell for the exoticism of the Buena Vista Social Club, the Cubans fell for the downright brilliance of the Fab Four. Guarded by life-size statues of John, Paul, George and Ringo, this quirky place hosts Beatles tribute bands (in Spanish) every weekend. Unmissable!
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