Things to do in Arrecife
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo
Converted in 1994 by the Fundación César Manrique into a sleek modern-art museum, the Museo de Arte Contemporáneo is housed in the Castillo de San José, which was built in the 18th century to deal with pirates and, at a time of famine on the island, to provide unemployed locals with a public-works job scheme. Today it houses the most important collection of modern art in the Canaries.
Aside from a couple of early works by Manrique himself (which may help explain why he turned to architecture), artists such as Miró, Millares, Rivera, Gerardo Rueda, Sempere and Tápies are on show. Both gallery and restaurant are well worth the 30-minute walk from the city centre.
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MIAC Restaurant
Situated in the Castillo de San José, along with the art gallery, is Arrecife's greatest gastronomic-cum-visual experience. Glide down the spiral staircase and order some wonderful meat and fish dishes in the grooviest possible setting. The huge wraparound windows overlook the port and the décor is the usual Manrique mix of airy and inventive. The bow-tied service completes the dress-for-dinner feel.
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Centro Insular de Cultura El Almacén
Another vibrant gallery space is the Centro Insular de Cultura El Almacén, a cultural centre housed in a former warehouse that has had a stylish makeover, once again influenced by Manrique. There are exhibitions, a cinema (showing original-version films) and a bar and restaurant named after César's old buddy, Picasso, where you can enjoy live music at weekends.
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La Tavernetta
There's a smattering of breezy outdoor cafés and restaurants on Calle Ruperto González Negrín and La Marina. La Tavernetta is a winner with its picture windows and vast menu, including bacon-and-egg breakfasts, healthy salads, fish and meat dishes and a heavenly chocolate soufflé.
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Charco de San Ginés
The Charco de San Ginés is an attractive lagoon that could be a commercialised, Portofino-style place but, thankfully, it's not (yet). The buildings and restaurants here are a beguiling combo of mildly down-at-heel and freshly whitewashed with blue trim.
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Calle José Antonio
There's plenty of nightlife choice in town, ranging from gritty local bars to intimate chill-out cafés - and just about everything in between. The main moving-and-shaking clubs are located on one short strip of central Calle José Antonio .
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Castillo de San Gabriel
The city's second castle, the curiously squat 16th-century Castillo de San Gabriel was sorely tested on several occasions by Moroccan and European pirates. Today it is home to occasional exhibitions, but generally closed to the public.
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Mesón La Tinaja
This restaurant specialises in traditional Basque dishes like black pudding from Burgos, red peppers stuffed with codfish and red sausage from Bera. More international fare includes tasty curried rice with vegetables.
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Restaurant La Puntilla
The breezy blue-and-white colour scheme adds to the charm of this lake-side restaurant with its view of the bobbing boats. The menu includes seafood dishes like octopus with potatoes in mojo and fried squid.
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Playa del Reducto
If you fancy a dip, Playa del Reducto is a superb white sandy beach, a thong's throw from Calle Dr Rafael González Negrín. It's safe for children, reasonably clean and, generally, surprisingly empty.
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Bar Andalucía
Right off the main shopping strut and sporting Andalusian tiles, paintings for sale and straight-from-Seville tapas like stuffed peppers and patatas alioli (fried potatoes with garlic mayonnaise).
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Iglesia de San Ginés
The Iglesia de San Ginés, an attractive church consecrated to the island's patron saint, was built in 1665 and features a statue - which originated in Cuba - of said saint. Opening hours vary.
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Domus Pompeii
The owner of this trattoria is from Pompeii so expect faux-Roman surroundings and delicious thin-crust Neapolitan pizza, plus homemade pasta with simple, fresh sauces. The house wine is superb.
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El Convento
El Convento has arches and columns but little else ecclesiastical. This club gets going around midnight, with DJs spinning a mix of music, including funky house, retro and rocky Latino.
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Ciclomanía
Pedal-power aficionados should head to Ciclomanía, which rents out mountain bikes and all the extras, including children's seats and helmets.
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Divino Doblón
A nautical-themed cavernous place attracting throngs of young revellers with its three bars and energetic mix of music.
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La Calle Disco Pub
La Calle Disco Pub has regular live bands. Get going around midnight.
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