Things to do in La Palma
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El Lagar
Everything from curries to pizzas to fresh Canarian fish is served at this sprawling beach-side restaurant at the back of the Centro Cancajos. By day, enjoy great ocean views.
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Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves
For great views over Santa Cruz and the shore, take the relatively easy 2km hike north of town to La Palma's main object of pilgrimage, the 17th-century Santuario de la Virgen de las Nieves .
To walk from Plaza Alameda, follow the road, which becomes a signposted dirt track, westwards up the gorge of the Barranco de las Nieves. It will take nearly 45 minutes to walk up, but coming back is faster. By car, follow signs from the Avenida Marítima where it crosses the barranco (ravine), then turn right on the Carretera de las Nieves (LP-101) and continue winding up the hillside until you see signs for the sanctuary. The curve-filled 5km trip takes nearly 15 minutes. Bus 10 (a…
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Caldera de Taburiente
The heart of the park is the Caldera de Taburiente itself; literally, the Taburiente 'Stewpot' or 'Cauldron'. A massive depression 8km wide and surrounded by soaring rock walls (it doesn't take much imagination to see where the name came from), it was first given the moniker in 1825 by German geologist Leopold von Buch, who took it to be a massive volcanic crater. The word 'caldera' stuck, and was used as a standard term for such volcanic craters the world over.
This caldera, however, is no crater, although volcanic activity was key in its creation. Scientists now agree that this was a majestically tall volcanic mountain, and that it collapsed on itself. Through the mille…
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Volcán San Antonio
Don't miss the short but breathtaking walk along the rim of Volcán San Antonio. It takes just 20 minutes to walk the gravel path halfway around the yawning chasm of this great black cone, which last blew in 1949 and is now being repopulated by hardy Canary pines. Afterwards, take a look at the small visitor centre, where a seismograph constantly measures volcanic movement in the area shows a boring but comforting straight line. You can also take a camel ride around the volcano.
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Calle Álvarez Abreu
Santa Cruz is no mecca for night owls; on the island, Los Llanos de Aridane takes that title. But there are plenty of quiet terrace bars where you can nurse a drink or two. Along Avenida Marítima, which is lined with cafés and zumerías (juice bars), you'll find a family-friendly atmosphere. In town head to Calle Álvarez Abreu, the closest thing you'll find to a nightlife scene. The Plaza José Mata, off Avenida Puente, also has a few bars.
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Plaza Alameda
Gaze north across leafy Plaza Alameda a good place to sip a café cortado - an espresso with a splash of milk) and you'll think Christopher Columbus' ship, the Santa María, became stranded here. But no, it's actually the city's Museo Naval, known as El Barco de la Virgen (The Virgin's Boat) to the locals. It was closed for repairs at the time of research, but until it reopens it makes for a great photo opportunity.
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Plaza España
Wander north along Calle O'Daly and you'll come to the palm-shaded Plaza España, considered the most important example of Renaissance architecture in the Canary Islands. To one side sits the imposing town hall, and across the plaza is the ornate Iglesia del Salvador. Follow the steps heading up out of the Plaza de España to reach the upper town.
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Calle O'Daly
Chances are you'll be starting your visit of La Palma either from the Plaza Constitución or from the huge ocean-front parking lot. Either way, you're a short walk from Calle O'Daly, the city's main street. Named for an Irish trader who made La Palma his home, the street is full of shops, bars and some of the town's most impressive architecture.
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Old Houses
Wander down to the waterfront to stroll alongside a series of wonderful Old Houses with traditional Canarian balconies. Many of the houses date to the 16th century and have been converted into upscale restaurants. The islanders' penchant for balconies came with Andalusian migrants and was modified by Portuguese influences.
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Iglesia del Salvador
Though the church's exterior seems more fortress than house of worship, the interior boasts a glittering baroque pulpit dating to 1750, an ornate 16th-century wooden ceiling considered one of the best mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture) works in all the Canaries, and several fine sculptures.
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La Cabaña
Enjoy grilled meats, fresh fish, salads, soup, papas arrugadas with mojo, and fabulous bread cooked with anise (an island speciality) at this rustic spot just off the highway south of town. The balcony terrace affords an ocean view - although you'll have to put up with traffic noise.
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Museo Casa Roja
As soon as you enter town, make a left to head down to Museo Casa Roja, a lovely pinkish-red mansion (built in 1911) with exhibits on embroidery and Corpus Christi - a festival the town celebrates with particular gusto. The house itself has an impressive imperial staircase and ornate tiled floors.
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Bodegas Teneguía
After getting your fill of the craters, check out the town's other claim to fame: the wines made in this volcanic soil. The largest winery in town is Bodegas Teneguía, with white, red and sweet wines that are sold all over the island and beyond. There's also a good restaurant in the winery.
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Iglesia de San Andrés
The Iglesia de San Andrés has its origins in 1515 and is one of the first churches the Spanish conquerors built on the island, though most of what you see today was built in the 17th century. Inside, take a look at the lavish baroque altarpieces and the coffered ceiling.
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Iglesia de San Francisco
Crossing the wide Avenida del Puente, a major thoroughfare, Calle O'Daly becomes Calle Anselmo Pérez de Brito. Make your way northeast towards the Iglesia de San Francisco, another Renaissance church rich in works of art, the majority being unmistakably baroque.
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Escuela Insular de Artesanía
Beyond the museum is Escuela Insular de Artesanía, the island handicrafts school, which runs a shop where you can buy tobacco, embroidery, ceramics, baskets and other goods. To get to the shop, head into the school's main patio and up the stairs on your right.
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Aridane Grill-Restaurante
Although the grilled meats and fish are delicious, Aridane's real claim to fame is its fabulous setting inside a Canarian patio, where you can see the flames of the grill dancing and even peek above the patio walls to catch a glimpse of mountains in the distance.
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La Placeta
A charming little bistro on a tiny square, La Placeta has a small menu featuring everything from ravioli to Canary mojo sauces, including lots of vegetarian dishes. Downstairs, get sandwiches, desserts and tapas. Head upstairs for the dining room.
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La Lonja
Inside an old Canary house with balconies overlooking the seafront, La Lonja is perhaps the city's most upscale restaurant, with a mix of Canarian, Castillian and Mediterranean fare like paella, suckling pig and roasted cheese with mojo.
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Cerámica el Molino
Cerámica el Molino is a meticulously restored mill that houses a ceramics museum and workshop where artisans make reproductions of Benahoare pottery. There's a popular souvenir shop as well. You can also get here from the LP-132 highway.
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La Roca
Both fish and meat lovers coincide on the beach-side terrace of La Roca, where the sound of crashing waves may interfere with conversation - all the better to concentrate on dishes of fried baby cuttlefish, grouper fillet and leg of lamb.
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Nuestra Señora de Montserrat
The grand church, Nuestra Señora de Montserrat is on the square and has some valuable Flemish artwork inside. Named for the patron of Catalunya, this church is evidence of the many Catalans who participated in the island's conquest.
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Plaza España
Plaza España is the heart of the historic town. Majestic Indian laurel trees provide much-welcome leafy canopy on even the sunniest days, making this the perfect spot to picnic, people-watch or relax in a terrace café.
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Kiosco Playa Morena
Paragliding is quickly gaining momentum here; aficionados come from throughout Europe to take advantage of the island's ideal conditions and easy take-off and landing sites. Arrange for a tandem glide with Kiosco Playa Morena.
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Salta Si Puedes
Choose between an old-fashioned formal dining room or a rustic, summer-camp-like room with long communal tables to savour the grilled meats and fish that are the staple of this homy eatery, a 15-minute walk beyond the centre.
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