Things to do in San Sebastián De La Gomera
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Torre del Conde
Set in a park just off the coast, Torre del Conde is considered the Canary Islands' most important example of military architecture. Here, Beatriz de Bobadilla, wife of the cruel and ill-fated Hernán Peraza, had to barricade herself in 1488 until help arrived.
Governor Hernán Peraza the younger had long been hated for his cruel treatment of the islanders. When, in 1488, he broke a pact of friendship with one of the Gomero tribes and, openly cheating on his wife, began cavorting with Yballa, a local beauty and fiancée of one of the island's most powerful men, the natives rebelled. They surprised Peraza during one of his clandestine meetings with Yballa and killed him with…
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Casa de la Aguada
Just off Plaza Constitución, which is shaded by enormous Indian laurel trees, is Casa de la Aguada, also referred to as Casa de la Aduana or Casa Condal, since at different times it served as the customs house and the count's residence. The tourist office fills one side of this traditional Canary home, but the back of it is dedicated to the exhibit 'La Gomera & the Discovery of America', an interesting account (though all in Spanish) of Columbus' trip and Gomeran culture in those times.
According to folklore, Columbus drew water from the well that sits in the central patio and used it to 'baptise America'.
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Dehesa de Majona
North of town, on the TF-711 highway, is an interesting bike trail leading into the Dehesa de Majona, the largely uninhabited pastureland to the north of the capital. The dirt track begins near a lookout point, venturing towards the goat-herding villages of Casas de Enchereda and Casas de Juel before winding its way towards the coast and eventually joining up with sealed local roads near Hermigua. The lonely route can be hiked in about eight hours (one way).
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Marqués de Oristano
This 16th-century Canary house has been completely renovated to create this sprawling three-in-one eatery. The old stables are now an informal tavern where you can order drinks and tapas; the garden is a bar and grill serving lots of simple fish dishes; and the upstairs living quarters have been transformed into an upscale 'gourmet restaurant' serving dishes like boned kid with black potatoes, and potato confit.
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Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción
Head up Calle Real to Iglesia de la Virgen de la Asunción, the site where Columbus and his men supposedly came to pray before setting off for the New World. The original chapel was begun in 1450 but was destroyed by a fire. The 18th-century church here today has three naves and mixes mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture), Gothic and baroque architectural styles.
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Plaza Américas
Most of the interesting sites in the town centre are somehow related to Columbus (in either real or contrived ways), and they form a route you can follow around town. Begin at Plaza Américas, where you can get a juice in one of the terrace bars.
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Bar-Zumería Puntallana
A favourite Canarian species, the juice bar is a fabulous spot for breakfast, a quick lunch or a pick-me-up. The juices here, made on the spot with fresh and often local fruit, are outstanding and the cold and hot sandwiches are cheap and filling.
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Restaurante Breñusca
Locals say this slightly greasy-feeling bar/diner/restaurant is one of the best spots in town to try simple, traditional Canarian fare like homemade fried calamari, meatballs and stews. The catch of the day is always recommended.
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Mirador de la Hila
To get a good overview of San Sebastián, head up the road to the Parador Nacional Conde de la Gomera hotel, where the Mirador de la Hila showcases the coast, the square houses of town and the rough, dry mountains beyond.
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Volcanic Beach
The sandy Volcanic Beach is a nice place to relax and have a swim. It's also the site of some of the town's liveliest festivals, such as El Día de San Juan (St John's Day), when the beach is lined with bonfires.
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Playa de la Cueva
Past the port, and accessible via a small tunnel, is the smaller and prettier, though often windy, Playa de la Cueva . On a clear day, Tenerife seems like it's within spitting distance!
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Restaurante El Charcón
A tiny, 10-table restaurant dug out of the rock near the shore, El Charcón specialises in fish and Gomeran specialities like almogrote (cheese spread) and mojos.
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Restaurante Cuatro Caminos
Stews and soups, grilled meats and Castilian specialities like cochinillo (piglet) are served in a tiny patio dining room where hanging plants drip from the ceiling.
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Ermita de San Sebastián
The humble Ermita de San Sebastián, which has little to recommend it other than its age (the chapel was built in 1540), is a few blocks further on.
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Bar-Restaurante La Tasca
Dark and inviting, this intimate tavern serves mainland-style tapas alongside pizzas and more elaborate dishes like lasagne or grilled rabbit.
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Mercado Municipal
Self-caterers can make a beeline for the Mercado Municipal, which is large, well-stocked and located beside the bus station.
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Casa de Colón
A house built on the site where Columbus supposedly stayed while on the island. It's closed indefinitely for renovations.
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El @mbigú
El @mbigú is an Internet café by day, but morphs into a trendy nightspot after dinner.
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Foto Junonia
Stocks books, maps and guidebooks in Spanish and other languages (mostly German).
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Barbara's Bookstall
Head to this English bookseller during the twice-weekly flea and fresh market.
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