A popular home base for those on walking holidays, the sleepy town of Hermigua, 16km outside San Sebastián, is absolutely dripping with that authentic Gomeran feel. The town itself is strung out along the bottom of a lusciously green ravine, its houses like beads on a chain running down the middle.
At the heart of the original village, to the right as you enter from San Sebastián, are the 16th-century church and convent of Santo Domingo, with an intricately carved mudéjar ceiling.
To your left sits the Molino de Gofio (922 88 07 81; Carretera General; adult/child €2/free; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun), a reconstructed windmill where gofio was once ground. The quick tour leads you around the museum and mill. Afterwards, you can taste gofio accompanied by sweet wine. There’s also a good restaurant here.
Further down the ravine you’ll find the modern town, centred around the Iglesia de la Encarnación. This church was begun in the 17th century and not completed until the 20th, partly due to the fact that the original construction crumbled in the early 18th century. A public park, complete with a Lucha Canaria ring is on your right.
Hermigua winds down to a captivatingly blue ocean where the crushing waves are a bit too rough for swimming (although they’re occasionally used for surfing competitions). There is a big saltwater public pool down here, but it was closed indefinitely at the time of writing.
Even better is Playa de la Caleta, 3km southeast down the coast; follow the signs from the waterfront. It’s one of the prettier black-sand and pebble beaches in the north of the island.
Last updated: Feb 17, 2009
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