A pioneer of superb West Coast cuisine long before the 'locavore' fashion took hold, modest but legendary chef-owner John Bishop – he'll almost certainly drop by your table to say hi – is still at the top of his game in this charming, art-lined little restaurant. Served in an elegant, white- tablecloth room, the weekly-changing menu can include stuffed rabbit loin, steamed smoked sablefish and the kind of crisp, seasonal veggies that taste like they've just been plucked from the ground. The service here is pitch-perfect, so stay a little longer and indulge in dessert: if you're lucky, it'll be sweet fried fig empanada with brown sugar ice-cream.