Hidekazu Tojo's legendary skill with the sushi knife has created Vancouver's most revered Japanese restaurant, in a city that's probably the best in the world for this particular culinary art form outside Tokyo. Among his exquisite dishes are favorites such as lightly steamed monkfish, sautéed halibut cheeks and fried red tuna wrapped with seaweed and served with plum sauce. It's a sleek and sophisticated room and seats at both the sake bar and omakaze sushi bar can be hard to come by on weekend nights: book ahead by phone.