Getting there & away
The Relais Nordik (418-723-8787, 800-463-0680; www.relaisnordik.com) ferry travels to Île d’Anticosti and along the Lower North Shore.
Intercar (418-962-2126; 126 Rue Mgr Blanche) runs a daily bus to/from Baie Comeau ($40, four hours) and, Monday to Friday, another to/from Havre St Pierre ($33, 2¾ hours).
Aboriginal-owned Tshiuetin Rail Transportation (418-960-0982; 1005 Boul Laure) operates a twice-weekly service to/from Schefferville, 568km north, one of the province’s most remote spots, though once a thriving mining town. The scenery en route is phenomenal. Cutting through forests, the tracks pass over gorges, dip inside valleys, curve around waterfalls and rapids, slice through a section of mountain and jut along stretches of lakes, rivers and hills as far as the eye can see. The train crosses a 900m-long bridge, 50m over Rivière Moisie and past the 60m-high Tonkas Falls. You can stop in the wilderness to camp and fish, then catch the next service.