Pukaskwa National Park

Introducing Pukaskwa National Park

At Pukaskwa (puk-ah-saw), bear hugs are taken literally. The park (807-229-0801 ext 242; www.parkscanada.gc.ca/pukaskwa; Hwy 627; day use adult/child $5.45/2.70; backcountry sites $9.90, campsites $24.75-26.75) features an intact predator-prey ecosystem, which continues to thrive since there is only 4km of road in the entire preserve (and 1km in winter). Pukaskwa offers many of the same topographical features as Lake Superior Provincial Park and includes a small herd of elusive caribou.

There are two ways to explore this majestic hinterland. Those pressed for time can do a trip through the frontcountry, and for those with a flexible itinerary, an adventure through the park’s backcountry will be an unforgettable experience.

Pukaskwa’s frontcountry is based around Hattie Cove, the park’s only campground, about 2km from the park’s entrance. The Visitor Centre (9am-4pm Jul-Aug) offers a wealth of information about local wildlife and the boreal forest. On most summer evenings (starting around 7pm) there are guided hikes and activities departing from the center. Three short trails depart from the campground area, offering glimpses of the pristine setting. The popular Southern Headland Trail (2.2km) is a spear-shaped route that pokes along a rocky route offering elevated photo ops of the shoreline and the craggy Canadian Shield. The track also acquaints hikers with bonsai-esque trees, severely stunted by harsh winds blowing off the lake. The Halfway Lake Trail (2.6km) loops around a small squiggly lake. Informative signs, dotted along the path, annotate the trek by offering an informed perspective on the inner workings of the ecosystem. A third route, the Beach Trail (1.5km), winds along Horseshoe Bay and Lake Superior revealing sweeping vistas of crashing waves and undulating sand dunes. Hattie Cove and Halfway Lake offer tranquil day-long paddling options as well.

Pukaskwa’s backcountry would make the perfect setting for the next installment of Survivor – the 1878 sq km of untouched wilderness defines the word ‘isolation.’ The Coastal Hiking Trail (60km) is the main artery for hikers, dipping along the vast shoreline. Paddlers will be sated with three incredible routes, including the acclaimed White River Canoe Route (72km), which links Hattie Cove to White Lake Provincial Park. Before departing on a backcountry adventure, swing by the park’s administration office and pick up the detailed guides to the preserve.

It’s possible to get a taste for the rugged backcountry even if you’re only here for the day. Many fit hikers opt to traverse the first 7.6km of the Coastal Hiking Trail, which culminates at the 30m-long, 25m-high White Water Suspension Bridge. The trek is arduous, even wet, and you must return the way you came (making it a 15km total), but few will complain about the stunning surroundings.

You’ll probably need a water taxi if you’re doing any extended hiking or paddling. McCuaig Marine Services (807-229-0193; mccuaigk@onlink.net) can pick you up or drop you off anywhere along the coast. It’s best to have the boat drop you off in the wilderness and then work your way back to main camp; fickle weather can delay pickup service.

If you don’t have the time (or the guts) to plan your own trip, Naturally Superior Adventures and Caribou Expeditions offer a variety of guided excursions through Pukaskwa’s backcountry.

Last updated: Sep 22, 2008