Newfoundland & Labrador Getting there & around

Getting there & around

It isn’t easy getting to Newfoundland. You either have to ferry through the bad-ass waters of the Cabot Strait or fly into a fog-swallowed airport.

St John’s is the main air hub for the region, though Deer Lake is an excellent option for people focusing their visit on the Northern Peninsula.

Two car/passenger ferries sail to Newfoundland from Nova Scotia. Marine Atlantic (800-341-7981; www.marine-atlantic.ca) connects Port aux Basques, in western Newfoundland, and Argentia, on the Avalon Peninsula, with North Sydney in Nova Scotia. These massive ferries are the most popular way to enter the province. Reservations are recommended in midsummer, especially on the Argentia boat.

Ferries are also a well-used way to travel within the province to islands and outports. The Provincial Ferry Service (www.gov.nl.ca/ferryserv ices) sets the fares and schedules. Each service has its own phone number with up-to-the-minute information; it’s wise to phone before embarking.

DRL Coachlines (709-263-2171; www.drlgroup.com) operates Newfoundland’s only cross-island bus route. It sends one bus per day from St John’s to Port aux Basques (13½ hours), making 25 stops en route. Other than that, public transportation consists of small, regional shuttle vans that connect with one or more major towns. Although not extensive, this system works pretty well and will get most people where they want to go.

Be warned: it’s hell to obtain a rental car. Companies’ fleets are small (thanks to the island’s remoteness and its short tourist season), which means there are loads of tourists vying for just a few vehicles. Costs can rack up to $100 per day (including taxes and mileage fees). Reserve well in advance, and confirm the booking before you arrive. Driving distances are deceptive, as travel is often slow-going on heavily contorted, single-lane roads. Watch out for moose. Hwy 1 is the main cross-island road.

Regional driving distances:

St John’s to Port aux Basques: 905km

St John’s to Gros Morne: 708km

Gros Morne to St Anthony: 372km