Things to do in St John’s
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Auntie Crae's
Come to this specialty food store for a cuppa joe, groceries, chowder or a sandwich. Relax with your goodies in the adjoining Fishhook Neyle's Common Room.
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Newfoundland Science Centre
A rainy-day option for the kids is the Newfoundland Science Centre with dinosaurs, a planetarium and space exhibits (check out the astronaut toilet or calculate your age on Mars).
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Johnson Geo Centre
Nowhere in the world can geo-history, going back to the birth of the earth, be accessed so easily as in Newfoundland, and the Geo Centre does a grand job of making snore-worthy geological information perk up with appeal via its underground, interactive displays.
The center also has an exhibit on the Titanic, and how human error and omission caused the tragedy, not just an iceberg. For instance, the ship's owners didn't supply her with enough lifeboats so as not to 'clutter the deck,' and the crew ignored myriad ice warnings. What any of this has to do with geology remains unclear, but who cares? It's fascinating.
Trails with interpretive panels wind around outside. The Geo…
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The Rooms
Not many museums offer the chance to see a giant squid, hear avant-garde sound sculptures and peruse ancient weaponry all under one roof. But that's The Rooms, the province's all-in-one historical museum, art gallery and archives. Frankly, the building is much more impressive to look at than look in, since its frequently changing exhibits are sparse. But whoa! The views from this massive stone-and-glass complex, which lords over the city from a breath-sapping hilltop, are eye-poppers; try the 4th-floor cafe for the best vistas. There's free admission Wednesday evenings.
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Anglican Cathedral of St John the Baptist
Serving Canada's oldest parish (1699), the Anglican cathedral is one of the finest examples of ecclesiastical Gothic architecture in North America. Although originally built in the 1830s, all but its exterior walls were reduced to ashes by the Great Fire of 1892. It was rebuilt in 1905. The Gothic ribbed ceiling, graceful stone arches and long, thin, stained-glass windows are timeless marvels. A gargoyle dating from the 12th century – a gift from the Diocese of Bristol – stands guard over the south transept. Students offer tours, organists play concerts and elderly church ladies serve tea and crumpets.
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Duke of Duckworth
'The Duke,' as it's known, is an unpretentious English-style pub that represents all that's great about Newfoundland and Newfoundlanders. Stop in on a Friday night and you'll see a mix of blue-collar, white-collar, young and old, even band members from Great Big Sea plunked down on the well-worn, red-velour bar stools. The kitchen cooks the ultimate in chicken pot pie, fish and chips and other comfort foods, and 14 beers (including the local Quidi Vidi) flow through the taps.
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Fluvarium
The Fluvarium, a glass-sided cross-section of a 'living' river, is located across the street from the CA Pippy Park's campground. Viewers can peer through large windows to observe the undisturbed goings-on beneath the surface of Nagle's Hill Brook. Numerous brown trout and the occasional eel can be seen. If there has been substantial rain or high winds, all visible life is lost in the murkiness. There's also a demonstration fish hatchery.
Opening times vary, but feeding time is scheduled at 16:00, and tours are offered hourly except at 16:00.
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Queen's Battery & Barracks
You can see cannons and remains of the late 18th-century British battery at Queen's Battery & Barracks up Signal Hill. The diminutive castle topping the hill is Cabot Tower. It was built in 1900 to honor both John Cabot's arrival in 1497 and Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. Here Italian inventor Guglielmo Marconi gleefully received the first wireless transatlantic message from Cornwall, England, in 1901.
There are guides and displays in the tower; an amateur radio society operates a station here in summer.
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Basilica of St John the Baptist
Built in 1855, the soaring twin spires of the basilica pierce the sky and are visible all the way from Signal Hill. Its design marks the revival of classical architecture in North America. Inside, 65 unique stained-glass windows illuminate the remarkable polychromatic Italianate ceiling and its gold-leaf highlights. The honor of being named a 'basilica' was bestowed on the church by Pope Pius XII on its centennial anniversary. Free half-hour tours are offered 10am to 5pm Monday to Saturday in July and August, according to demand.
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Newman Wine Vaults
Dating from the 1780s, these dark, cool wine vaults are where the Newman company aged its port until 1996 (when EU regulations forced the process back to Portugal). Tour guides relay stories such as how English noblemen, who wanted to be buried in their homeland, got shipped back after death in barrels of port, since the alcohol preserved their bodies. There are no tastings, but you can purchase bottles. The vaults often host literary events.
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East Coast Trail
The epic East Coast Trail now stretches 220km from Fort Amherst in St John's south to Cappahayden; an additional 300km will be developed eventually. It is part easy coastal walking, part tough wilderness trail. Maps are available at Outfitter's (220 Water St), Downhome (303 Water St) and the trail website, which also has information on free weekly guided hikes. An excellent stretch runs along the coast from Cape Spear.
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Government House
Set amongst a stand of chestnut, maple and oak trees is the Palladian-style Government House. Built at the same time as the White House, but at four times the cost, the austere mansion (1831) with its prominent corner quoins and window surrounds is home to the province's lieutenant governor. The interior maintains original furnishings and is open for free tours (10:00 Wednesday and Thursday); you must book in advance.
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North Head Trail
An awesome way to return to downtown from Signal Hill is along the North Head Trail (1.7km) that connects Cabot Tower with the harborfront Battery neighborhood. The walk departs from the tower's parking lot and traces the cliffs, imparting tremendous sea views and sometimes whale spouts. Because much of the trail runs along the bluff's sheer edge, it isn't something to attempt in icy, foggy or dark conditions.
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Signal Hill National Historic Site
A trip up Signal Hill, the city's most famous landmark, is worth it for the glorious view alone, though there's much more to see.
An interpretive center features interactive displays on the site's history. The last North American battle of the Seven Years' War took place here in 1762, and Britain's victory ended France's renewed aspirations for control of eastern North America.
You can see cannons and the remains of the late-18th-century British battery at Queen's Battery & Barracks further up the hill. The tiny castle topping the hill is Cabot Tower, built in 1900 to honor both John Cabot's arrival in 1497 and Queen Victoria's Diamond Jubilee. Here Italian inventor…
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Botanical Garden
Memorial University's botanical garden is at Oxen Pond, at CA Pippy Park's western edge off Mt Scio Rd. There's a cultivated garden and a nature reserve. Together, these and the park's Long Pond marsh provide visitors with an excellent introduction to the province's flora, habitats (including boreal forest and bogs) and animals (look for birds at Long Pond and the occasional moose).
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Fort Amherst
Across the Narrows from Signal Hill, and dwarfed by its massive cliffs, are the remains of centuries-old Fort Amherst. You can almost touch the icebergs and whales from here, and the views along the rugged coast are incredible. You'll discover remnants of WWII gun batteries and a lighthouse (1810), the first in Newfoundland.
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Mallard Cottage
Over Signal Hill, away from town, is the tiny, picturesque village of Quidi Vidi. Here you'll find the oldest cottage in North America, Mallard Cottage, which dates from the 1750s. It's now a national heritage site and a very cluttered antique/junk shop. Something is sure to charm you; profits go to maintenance.
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Quidi Vidi Brewery
Quidi Vidi Brewing is a microbrewery located in an old fish-processing plant on the tiny wharf. It's a swell place to slake one's thirst. By car, take Forest Rd from the city and follow it past the lake until it turns into Quidi Vidi Village Rd. Locals prefer you to park on the outskirts of town and walk in.
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Quidi Vidi Battery
Built in 1762 and still symbolically guarding the bay from up the hill is Quidi Vidi Battery . Built by the French after they took St John's, the battery was quickly claimed by the British and remained in military service into the 1800s. Period-garbed interpreters dole out historical information.
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St John's Haunted Hike
The black-caped Reverend Thomas Wyckham Jarvis Esq leads these super-popular explorations of the city's dark corners. He'll spook you with tales of headless captains, murderers and other ghosts. Departure is from the Anglican Cathedral's west entrance.
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Bagel Café
It's the Bagel Café by day, Figg's Restaurant by night, but frankly it's the breakfast we're after, available any time. Eggs 'n fishcakes, omelets and piles of home-fry potatoes get dished up in the dim lighting to tattooed guys and prim older ladies alike.
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Trapper John's Museum & Pub
It's not the most refined pub in town, but it sure is the most fun place to become an Honorary Newfoundlander, which happens after you kiss Stubby the Puffin (a variation on the usual codfish). The animal traps enshrined throughout grant the 'museum' status.
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Dee Jay Charters
For most boat tours, you need to head out of town to Petty Harbour or Witless Bay. The Dee Jay Charters boat sneaks into Quidi Vidi and makes a run down to Cape Spear in search of icebergs in June, whales in July and August and seabirds all season.
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CA Pippy Park
The feature-filled, 1343- hectare CA Pippy Park coats downtown's northwestern edge. Recreational facilities include walking trails, picnic areas, playgrounds, a golf course and a campground. Memorial University, the province's only university, is here too.
The university's botanical garden is at Oxen Pond, at the park's western edge off Mt Scio Rd. There's a cultivated garden and a nature reserve. Together, these and the park's Long Pond marsh give visitors an excellent introduction to Newfoundland's flora, habitats (including boreal forest and bogs) and animals (look for birds at Long Pond and the occasional moose). Take the 3km Long Pond Walk for the full effect.
The …
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Royal St John's Regatta Museum
Inland from the village, Quidi Vidi Lake is the site of the city-stopping St John's Regatta. The Royal St John's Regatta Museum is on the second floor of the boathouse. Opening hours vary. A popular walking trail leads around the lake.
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