Getting there & away
National Highway 4 (NH4), the 230km highway between Sihanoukville and Phnom Penh, is in excellent condition but is quite dangerous due to the prevalence of high-speed overtaking on blind corners. It’s doubly dicey around dusk and at night, when all intercity road travel is best avoided.
NH3 to Kampot (105km) is also in tip-top shape.
Taking NH48 to Krong Koh Kong and the Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing will be a breeze once the four ferry crossings are replaced by bridges, an engineering landmark that should happen sometime in 2008.
The bus station – little more than a big parking lot – is in the city centre a block north of Ekareach St. Almost all companies charge foreigners a bit more than Khmers; prices quoted below are for foreigners. Bookings can be made in person or via guesthouses and hotels, which take a commission.
Companies with services to Phnom Penh (four hours) include Phnom Penh Sorya (933888), Cambodia’s largest bus company, which has six per day at US$4.50; Mekong Express (934189), whose limousine buses have toilets, two per day at US$6; Rith Mony (RMN; 934161), four per day at US$3.50; GST Express (933826), four per day at US$3.50 to US$4.50; and Paramount Angkor Express (017 525366), US$5. All have offices at the bus station with schedules posted. Departures are plentiful in the morning but peter out by about 2pm.
Buses to Krong Koh Kong also leave from the bus station. Virak-Buntham has services to Krong Koh Kong and the nearby Cham Yeam–Hat Lek border crossing (US$14; likely to drop as ferry crossings are replaced by bridges) and can get you to Bangkok (US$31), Ko Samet (US$31) and Ko Chang (US$26). Rith Mony can also get you to Krong Koh Kong (US$14). We’ve received reports of wild driving by some minibus drivers on this route.
Sihanoukville International Airport is 18km east of town near Ream National Park. Temple-beach combo holidays have been much touted for years, but air service to Sihanoukville was suspended in mid-2007 after a plane went down near Bokor Hill Station. Siem Reap Airways is looking into reinstating the service.