Things to do in Phnom Bayong
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Chenla Temple
The steep walk up to the temple takes about 2½ hours return. The trail is not clearly marked, so it's a good idea to hire a local lad (or five) with a machete. Along the way you're likely to see locals out collecting leaves and roots for the preparation of traditional medicines. Bring plenty of water and thick eyebrows (or at least a handkerchief to wipe the sweat from your forehead). The descent over smooth rocky inclines will help prepare your leg muscles for the next ski season.
The linga originally in the inner chamber is now in Paris' Musée Guimet but a number of flora- and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can still be seen, eg on the lintels of the three false…
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jungle walks
Fascinating jungle walks led by rangers - most, but not all, speak English - are easy to arrange (hiking unaccompanied is not allowed) at the park headquarters. A two- to three-hour walk from the Keng Kong Recreation Site (9.5km south of the park's HQ) to the Andoung Tuek Cascades costs around US$6 per person. Pond swimming is possible during the wet season.
A five- or six-hour hike into the park's mountainous interior costs around US$2 per hour per participant. It's best (but not obligatory) to call ahead. The income generated goes to help protect the park.
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Kirivong Waterfall
Kirivong Waterfall, 2.5km west of the southern edge of Kirivong town, is popular with locals, especially on warm weekends, but it's nothing to write home about - unless you like telling your friends about all the litter you've seen. Until it's cleaned up (there are plans…), the only reason to head out there is to check out the market stalls selling the area's most famous product: topaz and quartz, either cut like gems or carved into tiny Buddhas and naga.
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Dolphin watching
In the coconut-shaded fishers' village of Thmor Thom - reachable by boat - the national park has a ranger post known as Dolphin Station because, from November to March, you can often see dolphins in the morning and evening. Two-hour dolphin-watching boat trips costs around US$20 for up to four people.
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snorkelling
Ream National Park's territory includes two islands with some fine snorkelling, Koh Thmei and - just off Vietnam's Phu Quoc Island - Koh Seh. In the dry season, if it's not too windy, you can get out there by wooden motorboat from the Prek Toeuk Sap ranger station.
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boat trips
Ranger-led boat trips on the Prek Toeuk Sap Estuary and its mangrove channels are another option. You can often spot monkeys, dolphins and lots of birds - in addition to sunbathing, swimming and snorkelling (equipment hire costs around US$2).
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Phnom Tchea Tapech
Further west along the Phnom Bayong access road is Phnom Tchea Tapech, whose summit is marked by a jumbo standing Buddha reached by a monumental staircase. This new temple complex was inaugurated in late 2006.
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