Chenla Temple

The steep walk up to the temple takes about 2½ hours return. The trail is not clearly marked, so it's a good idea to hire a local lad (or five) with a machete. Along the way you're likely to see locals out collecting leaves and roots for the preparation of traditional medicines. Bring plenty of water and thick eyebrows (or at least a handkerchief to wipe the sweat from your forehead). The descent over smooth rocky inclines will help prepare your leg muscles for the next ski season.

The linga originally in the inner chamber is now in Paris' Musée Guimet but a number of flora- and fauna-themed bas-relief panels can still be seen, eg on the lintels of the three false doorways and carved into the brickwork.The site, once surrounded by two concentric walls (remnants are still visible), still attracts pilgrims and is tended by Buddhist nuns who live nearby in basic huts.