Stung Phong Roul Waterfall

Although well off the beaten path, this is one of Cambodia's most spectacular waterfalls, with five big drops arrayed around a vertiginous curve in the river. Clambering around is tough but worth it, as there are some good swimming holes at the right time of year.

The uppermost waterfall is a dramatic 10m high. Flat rock ledges border clear, surprisingly cool pools and are ideal for a romantic picnic. If you sit quietly with your feet in the water, little fish - God knows how they got up here - may nibble your toes.

Stung Phong Roul Waterfall is about 20km northeast of Sre Ambel in the foothills of the Cardamom Mountains. As the crow flies, Kirirom National Park is 20km further to the northeast.

In the dry season you can get to the falls by motorbike, though be warned: there are potholes big and deep enough to swallow an entire motorcycle, and getting around the rotted-out bridges can be a wet affair. From just northwest of the Sre Ambel bridge, turn northeast off NH48 and follow the dirt road to the Bailey bridge. From there, an arrow-straight one-time logging road heads east and then north-northeast to a cleft in the forested hills. A 20-minute walk up the slope takes you to the uppermost waterfall.

In Sre Ambel, you can hire a moto (USaround US$15 return, one hour to the base of the mountain). In the wet season it's possible to go most of the way by boat. The falls are rarely visited even by locals so it may be hard to find someone who knows the way.