Generally people prefer staying out of town on the river, but the charming city proper certainly has its merits. After a chilly day atop Bokor, a hot shower might be a welcome treat.
This rambling, family-friendly garden complex, smack dab on the river 2km north of the new bridge, is rich with activities, including kayaking (single/tandem US$4/6 for two hours), swimming, firefly-watching boat trips, badminton and pétanque.
Newly opened in the centre of town, it’s a colonial gem with three large rooms decorated with exquisite furniture. You’re just a pleasant two-minute stroll from the river here.
Near Olly’s, Bodhi is popular with Phnom Penh expats on weekends, when huge parties often erupt. At other times it’s a peaceful hideaway on the river with a good waterfront chill-out bar and a variety of rooms, including one floating bungalow.
A family-run travellers’ sanctuary with 15 smallish, good-value rooms.
In an imposing century-old colonial building facing the river, it’s a bit torn and frayed these days, but undeniably charismatic. Pricier rooms come with a river view. The bar has live music on Sunday.
Set in a manicured garden, this hostelry has comfortable air-con rooms, less comfortable fan rooms and three bungalows by a fish pond toward the back.
Situated on the waterfront 800m downriver from the post office (300m south of the southern end of the riverfront promenade), this serene, family-run place is ideal if you want to get away from it all. The three bungalows face a quiet garden.
An old-time backpacker vibe lives on at this atmospheric wooden house. Has a popular bar-restaurant and slightly shabby rooms.
Has 26 spacious rooms with soaring ceilings and TV. The garden restaurant offers good value.
On a street lined with 1960s row houses, Ta Eng is the best of the Khmer-style high-rises thanks to squeaky-clean rooms and friendly family ownership.
Rikitikitavi has six of the classiest and cleanest rooms in town. They have stunning wood floors and beams, four-poster beds and elegant mirrors, plus flat-screen TVs and DVD players.
Behind the governor’s mansion in a palatial villa, the 10 spacious rooms come with big windows, a DVD library and free tea and coffee, plus the best pizza in town, from a wood-fired oven.
This high-rise punches above its weight, with clean and cared-for rooms in addition to a prime riverfront location.
Over on the west side of the river you’ll find this mellow retreat, run by French- speaking Belgian Olly. The thatched bungalows and basic rooms are silly-good value considering the relaxed vibe and plum location.
Villa Vedici is a playground for kids and adults alike – along with kitesurfing and a speedboat for water-skiing and wakeboarding, it has Playstation on a gargantuan flat-screen in the main building’s airy living room.
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