Getting there & away
Few roads of any sort penetrate the Cardamom Mountains, ideal if you’re trying to protect the natural habitat – roads, even rudimentary ones, tend to attract loggers, poachers and encroachers – but a bit of a problem if you’d like to visit.
The southern reaches of the CCPF are easiest to reach from the south. It takes about two hours to drive from Krong Koh Kong to Thma Bang (wet-season travel may be difficult or impossible). Turn off NH48 about 10km east of the Tatai River bridge; from the Veal II (Veal Pii) ranger checkpoint, where a user fee may be collected, it’s a further 50 minutes.
Thma Bang is linked to Chi Phat by a difficult trail that can be handled by motorbike, but just barely.
The CCPF’s northern sections can be accessed, to the degree that they’re accessible at all, from Pursat.