Things to do in Central Cardamoms Protected Forest
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Rovieng Ranger Station
Another impressive collection of seatless cars and ox carts loaded with illegal wood fills the yard at Rovieng, but the most valuable contraband here is aromatic moras preuv oil, extracted from the roots of the endangered Disoxylon loureiri tree and kept in scores of plastic jerry cans. It has a delightful, sandalwood-like scent and keeps away both mossies and rats but interests smugglers because it can be used to make the drug ecstasy.
Other impounded objects stored here include chainsaws, snares (including some specially designed to catch pangolins) and guns.Bulletin-board photos show clandestine sawmills, stills used to make moras preuv oil, confiscated bush meat and a…
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Areng River Valley
The nearby Areng River Valley, some of whose inhabitants belong to the Khmer Daeum minority community, is home to the dragonfish (Asian arowana), almost extinct in the wild, and the world's most important population of critically endangered Siamese crocodiles, toothy critters that don't eat people.
In 2007 researchers found 23 Siamese crocodile eggs in a nest on the Areng River, in the Central Cardamoms Protected Forest. They took 12 eggs to a protected site where, 45 days later, all hatched; after being blessed by monks, they were released back into the river. Observations confirmed that all 11 eggs left behind also hatched. It's hard to believe but these 23 hatchlings r…
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Trekking
The truly intrepid can hire guides for the trek from Thma Bang north to Kravanh which takes at least a week, or from Chamnar (linked to Thma Bang by road) over the mountains to Kravanh, a five-day affair. These treks are possible only in the dry season. An easier option is the three-day hike from Chumnoab, east of Thma Bang, eastwards to Roleak Kang Cheung, linked to Kompong Speu by road.
Between the two is Knong Krapeur (1000m), set amid high-elevation grassland and pines. Inhabited five centuries ago, the area is known for its giant ceramic funeral jars, still filled with human bones.
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