Getting there & away
As part of the hill station’s redevelopment, the legendarily rough road up to Bokor – whose minibus-sized potholes make the Paris–Dakar Rally look like a Sunday drive in the country – is finally being upgraded. Rumour has it that while roadwork is underway, the only way to the top will be on foot or by Sokha-owned helicopter (US$2500 from Phnom Penh), but according to other rumours the road will be open but not all day, every day.
Mountain biking is a truly hardcore option. There are no decent bikes to rent as yet but they may come. If the 1km vertical climb appears too ugly, it’s possible to put the bike in the back of a pick-up, cut out the hard part and enjoy an adrenaline-fuelled descent, taking serious care on the corners.