Angkor Borei & Phnom Da

Introducing Angkor Borei & Phnom Da

Known as Vyadhapura when it served as the capital of ‘water Chenla’ in the 8th century, Angkor Borei – founded in the 5th century – is one of the earliest pre-Angkorian sites in Cambodia.

Today, Angkor Borei is a small, impoverished riverine town surrounded by an ancient wall. The local economy is based on dry-season rice cultivation, year-round fishing and raising the chickens and pigs that forage on the unpaved streets.

The modest, new archaeological museum (012 201638; admission US$1; officially 7-11am & 2-4pm, unofficially open all day), a bit east of the road bridge, occupies a Khmer-style building set to open in 2008. Featured are locally discovered Funan- and Chenla-era artefacts, including human bones, pottery, jewellery and stone carvings. The dark-red statues are copies of important works now in Phnom Penh’s National Museum or Paris’ Musée Guimet.

A local family has turned part of a traditional Khmer home into the signless Srey Pao Guesthouse (012 383094; per person 10, 000r). The two basic rooms come with mosquito nets and shared bathroom. To get there from the bridge, go north one block and then go left (west) for 100m – it’s next to the wooden stall selling schoolbooks.

You can grab a bite at the rudimentary psar (market), a few blocks inland from the river.

The twin hills of Phnom Da (US$2), spectacularly isolated by the annual floods, are 3km south of Angkor Borei. The rocky slopes shelter five artificial caves, built as Hindu and, later, Buddhist shrines and, during the Vietnam War, used as hideouts by the Viet Cong.

On top, 142 steps up, is a temple whose foundations date from the 6th century. Rebuilt in the 11th century, it’s 12 sq m and 18m high. The entrance faces due north, with blind doors – decorated with bas-relief nagas – on the other three sides. The lower section is laterite, while the upper reaches are made of red bricks. The finest carvings have been taken to museums in Angkor Borei, Phnom Penh and Paris.

About 50m northeast of the temple, a huge ‘floating boulder’ sits balanced on just three points. Vietnam can be seen 8km to the southeast.

Nearby, on a second hillock, is Wat Asram Moha Russei, a smaller, restored Hindu sanctuary, made of sandstone, that’s 5.5 sq m and 8m high.

At the dock, a couple of very basic cafés serve coconut milk and soft drinks.

Last updated: Apr 17, 2009