Things to do in Siem Reap
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Samatoa
If you find yourself in need of a party frock, this designer dress shop offers original threads in silk, with the option of a tailored fit in 48 hours. Samatoa promotes fair trade.
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Ta Prohm
Ta Prohm is as seductive as Lara Croft. The site of some of her cinematic adventures, it is a series of dark galleries and pillars held hostage under the iron clasp of gigantic roots. The walls are decorated with carvings of sensuous celestial nymphs with smaller roots crawling across them like a rash.
Built in AD 1186 by King Jayavarman VII, the temple was dedicated to his mother. In its prime it was a holy trunk of great treasures. According to the Sanskrit inscriptions on the walls, the temple held thousands of pearls, precious stones and golden dishes weighting more than 500kg.
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Little India Restaurant
The oldest Indian in town - that's the restaurant, not the owner - the food here is consistently good, with its fair share of vegetarian options and some delicious curries. It's good value for money too.
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Taj Mahal Restaurant
This halal restaurant may not look much from the outside, but while it lacks in design, it packs in flavour. Northern Indian cuisine is the speciality.
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Beng Mealea
Visitors to Beng Mealea are confronted with a mass of ruins half devoured by a ravenous jungle. The temple's abandoned stones lie like forgotten jewels swathed in lichen and its temple complex strangled by ivy and vines. Brought to you by the same man who built Angkor Wat, King Suryavarman II, it is similar in style to his later effort but receives only a fraction of the guests.
Beng Mealea is 70km northeast of Siem Reap on a sealed private road. You can get there in a chartered taxi.
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Blue Pumpkin
Downstairs it could be just another café, albeit with a delightful selection of cakes, breads, pastries and homemade ice cream. But head upstairs to find an old-school Starck (Philippe that is) interior, another world of white minimalist expression, with day beds that drain you of all will to leave. Light bites, filling specials, ice-cream creations and divine shakes – what more can you ask for? OK, there’s also free wi-fi.
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Warehouse
A popular bolt hole for expats escaping the madness of Bar St, this ‘local’ has lured many a traveller in for table football and indie anthems. The bar food is more cosmopolitan than most and best enjoyed from the 45-degree angle of a satellite chair. Free wi-fi.
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Temple Club
As the night wears on, the only worshipping going on at this temple is ‘all hail the ale’. Loud tunes (often too loud) and some liberally minded local girls (some are actually boys) draw a dance crowd. Mad happy-hours from 10am to 10pm.
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Viva
Mexican food and frozen cocktails are served at this kerbside restaurant, bringing the colour and spirit of Mexico to Siem Reap.
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Angkor Thom
From Angkor Wat, the bridge leading to the south gate of Angkor Thom has two incredible balustrades of giants handling nagas (mythical serpents, often multiheaded), an incredible first impression made only more dreamlike by the elephants plodding out of the arched entrance topped by the four enormous faces of Avalokiteshvara (the Buddha of Compassion). Angkor Thom is a walled compound bordered by a 100m wide moat. It was built by the great King Jayavarman VII (r 1181-1219) as his royal palace.
The complex has five gateways, each with double portals. Four of the gateways point to each side of the compass, while the fifth is a Victory Gateway.
Behind the 8m walls lie some of…
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Phnom Kulen
From a lofty height of 20m, the Phnom Kulen waterfall cascades off the mountain where King Jayavarman II announced independence from Java and proclaimed himself god-king. The river here also runs over lingas and is an attractive sight for modern-day pilgrims. There is also an 8m-long reclining Buddha and a small temple nearby.
There is also a little explored unnamed set of ruins at the foot of the mountain that is gaining mythical status among locals. Not many know how to get there, though they know of its existence. Would-be explorers are challenged to find it!
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Banteay Srei
This 'Citadel of Women' dedicated to Shiva, is a stunning tour de force of classical art and the most ornate of all of the temples. Though it is relatively tiny in size compared to its mammoth counterparts, it has the most intricate carvings and is believed to be the instigator of the Khmer art movement. The detail is astounding and each doorway, each lintel and every wall is a masterpiece.
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Funky Munky
A Brit pub with a flair for food. Sample the brilliant build-your-own burgers, or try the slightly scary ‘Cardiac Arrest’. There’s truly funky décor, with artsy film posters, and a cocktail menu created for cheeky monkeys. Drop by on Thursday for the quiz; all proceeds are donated to local causes.
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Sala Bai
Sala Bai was doing the Jamie Oliver thing long before Jamie opened the doors to fashionable Fifteen. This training school introduces disadvantaged young Khmers to the art of hospitality and you're the guinea pig. The small menu includes Western and Khmer cuisine, plus a set lunch for US$5.
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Abacus
The setting in a traditional wooden house belies a sophisticated menu of French-accented creations. The selection combines Gallic classics like entrecôte and duck breast with new-world additions like ostrich and smoked salmon. By night, barflys sip drinks around the counter.
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Angkor Night Market
Something different on the Siem Reap shopping scene, this lively night market includes handicrafts, souvenirs and silks. Shopping by night is a great way to avoid tropical torpor, plus there is the Island Bar at the back of the market for a spot of libation.
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Joe-to-Go
If you need coffee to course through your veins before you can muster the lustre for a sunrise at the temples, then sleepwalk your way here. Gourmet coffee, shakes and pastries, with proceeds supporting education and housing for street children.
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Happy Herb’s Pizza
No, happy doesn’t mean free toppings; it means pizza à la ganja that leaves diners on a high. Choose from happy or extra happy, but proceed with caution if you don’t want to write off the rest of your day. Nonhappy pizzas also available.
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Laundry Bar
Put on your cleanest undies and venture into one of the hippest bars in town. Low lighting, discerning décor and regular DJs are all crowd pleasers, and the pool table has them queuing up in the early hours. Happy hour lasts until 9pm.
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Angkor Market
The best supermarket in town has an excellent supply of international goodies for those heading upcountry.
Taj Mahal is a well-established Indian restaurant. Liberal portions will slake the most serious of curry cravings.
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Les Jardins des Delices
A training restaurant established by Accor founder Paul Dubrule, this is the smart setting to experience Sofitel style at a snip. The set menu includes a selection of French or Asian dishes for just US$8.
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McDermott Gallery
This photography gallery is home to John McDermott’s striking sepia-style images of the temples. For a preview of the temples in a different light, check out his online collection.
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Bodytune
Pamper that inner princess at this lavish outpost of a leading Thai spa. This is a fine place to relax and unwind on the riverfront, set in a grand old French-era building.
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Aqua
If you are melting in the heat and don’t have the benefit of a swimming pool at your hotel, head to Aqua, where there’s a large pool and a lively little bar-restaurant.
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Frangipani
Located down the narrow alley between Psar Chaa and Bar St, this delightful little retreat offers massage and a whole range of spa treatments.
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