Things to do in Pursat
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bamboo trains
Pursat's own bamboo trains - much less tourist-oriented than their Battambang cousins - stop at the train crossing 800m south of NH5 along the road to Kravanh. A three- or four-hour private excursion costs around US$10, or you can hop on with the locals; departures are most frequent in the morning.
For the best scenery, head towards Phnom Penh. One option is to get off at the village of Chheu Tom and catch a moto to Chhuk Laeng Cascades (Chroek Laeng Waterfall; one hour), situated 73km southeast of Pursat and 41km south of Krakor (on NH5 near Kompong Luong).
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marble-carving shops
On the rural east bank, walk south along the river road and you'll come upon a number of small marble-carving shops, where artisans make - and sell - everything from tiny tchotchkes to huge smiling Buddhas (also on sale in shops along NH5, including Chea Phally Marble Carving).You may also see groups of women making naom banchok (thick rice noodles) that they sell fresh in the market.
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Community Villa
Run by a Cambodian NGO that gives job skills to at-risk young people, this place, just off St 2, serves Khmer dishes, including ginger fish; Western meals, including salads; and the best pancakes and tukalok drinks in town. Most Cambodian restaurants have geckos that eat insects; this one has fearless frogs, so watch where you step at night.
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Koh Sampovmeas
Koh Sampovmeas, the town's answer to Singapore's Sentosa (though there's no cable car just yet), is an island park with manicured lawns, benches and Khmer-style pavilions. From the northern tip you can see a yellow, onion-domed mosque - topped with a star and crescent - eastward across the river.
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Mlop Doung
Said by some to serve Pursat's best cuisine, this garden restaurant - decked out in coloured fairy lights - serves Khmer specialities such as dtray bong kachait (fish with vegetables cooked at your table) in open-air thatched pavilions.
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cement dam
You can complete a vertiginous walk across the crumbling Khmer Rouge-era cement dam, part of a grandiose project intended to make it possible to grow rice in the dry season (the scheme never worked).
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Bun Rany Hun Sen Development Centre
Teaches cloth weaving, mat weaving, sewing, marble carving and other practical skills to young people and markets the items they make. Travellers are welcome to visit classes.
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market
The market, which burned to the ground in April 2007 but is being rebuilt, has both daytime eateries and a night market, as well as the usual fruit and veggie stalls.
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Magic Fish Restaurant
Affording fine river views from the balcony, this place - just north of the dam - serves tasty Khmer dishes and has the best roasted salt peanuts in town.
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Tela Petrol Station shop
For self-caterers, the Tela Petrol Station shop sells ice cream, wine, cookies and sometimes even yoghurt.
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Lim Hoeurn Grocery
For self-caterers, Lim Hoeurn Grocery stocks wine, soft cheese and Western snack food.
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