Things to do in Preah Vihear Province
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Prasat Preah Vihear
Prasat Preah Vihear, an important place of pilgrimage during the Angkorian period, was built by a succession of seven Khmer monarchs, beginning with Yasovarman I (r 889-910) and ending with Suryavarman II (r 1112-1152), builder of Angkor Wat. Like other temple-mountains from this period, it was designed to represent Mt Meru and was dedicated to the Hindu deity Shiva.
For generations, Prasat Preah Vihear has been a source of tension between Cambodia and Thailand. This area was ruled by Thailand for several centuries but retroceded to Cambodia during the French protectorate, under the treaty of 1907. In 1959 the Thai military seized the temple from Cambodia and then-Prime M…
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Preah Khan
Preah Khan's history is shrouded in mystery, but it was long an important religious site and some of the structures here date back to the 9th century. Both Suryavarman II, builder of Angkor Wat, and Jayavarman VII lived here at various times during their lives, suggesting that Preah Khan was something of a second city in the Angkorian empire.
Originally dedicated to Hindu deities, it was reconsecrated to Mahayana Buddhist worship during a monumental reconstruction undertaken by Jayavarman VII in the late 12th and early 13th centuries. The central structure, which included libraries and a pond for ablutions, has been devastated by looting in recent years. As recently as th…
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Koh Ker
Koh Ker is one of the least-studied temple areas from the Angkorian period. Louis Delaporte visited in 1880 during his extensive investigations into Angkorian temples. It was surveyed in 1921 by the great Henri Parmentier for an article in the Bulletin de l'École d'Extrême Orient, but no restoration work was ever undertaken here. Archaeological surveys were carried out by Cambodian teams in the 1950s and 1960s.
But all records vanished during the destruction of the 1970s, helping to preserve this complex as something of an enigma. Several of the most impressive pieces in the National Museum in Phnom Penh come from Koh Ker, including the huge garuda (mythical half-man, h…
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Prasat Krahom
Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom, the second-largest structure at Koh Ker, which is named for the red bricks from which it is constructed. Sadly, none of the carved lions for which this temple was once known remain, though there's still plenty to see - stone archways and galleries lean hither and thither and impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns.
A naga-flanked causeway and series of sanctuaries, libraries and gates lead past trees and vegetation-covered ponds. Just west of Prasat Krahom, at the far end of a half-fallen colonnade, are the remains of an impressive statue of Nandin.
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Prasat Thom
The principal monument is Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid with seven tiers that's just west of Prasat Krahom. This striking structure, which looks like it could almost be a Mayan site somewhere on the Yucatan Peninsula, offers some spectacular views across the forest from its summit. Look out for the giant garuda under the collapsed chamber at the top of the vertigo-inducing stairs. Some 40 inscriptions, dating from 932 to 1010, have been found at Prasat Thom.
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Gopura of the Third Level
The place to start a visit is at the monumental stairway, if possible from the bottom (near the market and the crossing from Thailand). As you walk south, you come to four cruciform gopura (sanctuaries), decorated with a profusion of exquisite carvings (eg lintels) and separated by esplanades up to 350m long. At the entrance to the Gopura of the Third Level, look for an early rendition of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, a theme later depicted awesomely at Angkor Wat.
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Weaves of Cambodia
The Weaves of Cambodia silk-weaving centre, known locally as Chum Ka Mon, was established by the Vietnam Veterans of America Foundation (VVAF) to rehabilitate amputees injured by land mines. Its artisans - who are at their hand looms from 07:00 to 11:00 Monday to Saturday - produce fine silk scarves and sarongs for export to Australia, Japan and the USA. To get there from the hospital on NH64, head four blocks east and half-a-block south.
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Ox-cart tours
Young people in dark khaki uniforms, members of the Apsara Authority's Community Heritage Patrol (www.autoriteapsara.org), keep an eye on the site, which is refreshingly clean and orderly. Ox-cart tours of the temples, lasting an hour-and-a-half, cost around US$12; proceeds go into a community development fund. For information on preservation and sustainable development plans for Koh Ker, visit www.heritagewatch.org.
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dharmasala
It is a further 400m southwest from Prasat Preah Stung to the walls of Preah Khan itself, which are surrounded by a moat similar to the one around the walled city of Angkor Thom. Entering through the eastern gopura (entrance pavilion), there is a dharmasala. Much of this central area is overgrown by forest, giving it an abandoned feel, though local authorities are undertaking a clearing programme.
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Prasat Damrei
At the eastern end of the 3km-long baray (reservoir) is a small pyramid temple called Prasat Damrei. On the remaining entrance wall, there are several impressive carvings of devadas (goddesses). At the summit of the hill, two of the original exquisitely carved elephants can still be seen; two others are at Phnom Penh's National Museum and Paris' Musée Guimet.
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Prasat Preah Stung
At the baray's western end stands Prasat Preah Stung (known to locals as Prasat Muk Buon - Temple of the Four Faces), perhaps the most memorable of the structures here because its central tower is adorned with four enigmatic Bayon-style faces.
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Central Sanctuary
The Central Sanctuary and its associated structures and galleries, in a remarkably good state of repair, are right at the edge of the cliff, which affords stupendous views of Cambodia's northern plains - this is a fantastic spot for a picnic.
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Mlop Dong Restaurant
This timber-shed eatery serves up the standard Khmer favourites, including fried veggies. Mornings are atmospheric as locals drop by for a quick noodle soup, while after dinner this is about the closest thing Tbeng Meanchey has to a pub.
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Prasat Thneng
Some of the largest Shiva linga (phallic symbols) in Cambodia can still be seen in four temples about 1km northeast of Prasat Thom. The largest is in Prasat Thneng , and Prasat Leung (Prasat Balang) is similarly well endowed.
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Dara Reah Restaurant
Popular with well-to-do locals, this large garden restaurant has two airy pavilions and generous portions of good grub. Specialities include a sizzling plate of rather chewy sliced beef.
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Rahal
South of this central group is a 1185m-by-548m baray (reservoir) known as the Rahal. It is fed by Stung Sen, which supplied water to irrigate the land in this arid area.
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Prasat Preah Thkol
In the centre of the baray is Prasat Preah Thkol (known by locals as Mebon), an island temple similar in style to the Western Mebon at Angkor.
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Phoum Sra Em Restaurant
Across the roundabout at Sa Em, the tin-roofed Phoum Sra Em Restaurant caters to truckers - or you can eat at the guesthouse with the family.
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Hidden Cambodia
Hidden Cambodia operates dirt-bike tours to Koh Ker, Preah Khan and Prasat Preah Vihear temples during the dry season.
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Hanuman Tourism
For something more upmarket, try the temple safari offered by Hanuman Tourism.
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