Phnom Yat

The southern gateway to Pailin is marked by a tree-covered hillock, Phnom Yat. From NH57, stairs lead through a garish gate - the naga are bubblegum pink, spearmint green and sunflower yellow - up to the equally psychedelic Wat Phnom Yat. The temple is centred on an ancient po tree and a life-sized cement tableau showing butt-naked sinners (about the only nudity you'll see in Cambodia) being heaved into a cauldron, de-tongued (for liars) and forced to climb a spiny tree (for adulterers).

Medieval European triptychs never made hell seem so uninviting! Nearby, the repentant pray for forgiveness, a highly pertinent message given who lives around here. There are clear views across Pailin, and this is a top spot for sunrise or sunset.