Things to do in Kompong Chhnang
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Phoum Kandal & Chong Kos
A short sail from Kompong Chhnang's waterfront takes you to two colourful floating villages, Phoum Kandal to the east and Chong Kos to the northwest. Much less commercial than Kompong Luong, they have all the amenities a mainland village would have - houses, machine tool shops, veggie vendors, a mosque, a petrol station - except that almost everything floats. Many of the people are ethnic Vietnamese.
From the Tourism Port, you can charter a big wooden boat with space for eight (around US$8) for a one-hour excursion. A cheaper, quieter and more ecological option, available about 300m to the west, is to get around like the floating villagers do: on a narrow wooden boat rowe…
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Phnom Santuk
A visit to Ondong Rossey can be combined with Phnom Santuk, a rocky hillock behind Wat Santuk, a few kilometres southwest of Kompong Chhnang. The boulder-strewn summit affords fine views of the countryside, including the Tonlé Sap, 20km to the north.
By bicycle or moto, combining Ondong Rossey and Phnom Santuk makes for a truly magical circuit, especially early in the morning or late in the afternoon. There are no road signs, so it's a good idea to go with a local.
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Ondong Rossey
The quiet village of Ondong Rossey, where the area's famous red pottery is made under every house, is a delightful 7km ride west of town through serene rice fields dotted with sugar palms, most with bamboo ladders running up the trunk. The unpainted pots, decorated with etched or appliqué designs, are either made with a foot-spun wheel (for small pieces) or banged into shape with a heavy wooden spatula (for large ones). Artisans are happy to show you how they do it.
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Pottery Development Center
The golden-hued mud piled up in the yards of Ondong Rossey is quarried at nearby Phnom Krang Dai Meas and pounded into fine clay before being shaped and fired; only at the last stage does it acquire a pinkish hue. Pieces, including piggy banks, can be purchased at the Pottery Development Center. In Kompong Chhnang, several stalls selling Ondong Rossey pottery can be found on NH5 towards Phnom Penh from the centre.
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river cruise
For a cheap river cruise, you can hop on a ferry to Kompong Lang District, about 6km away. The vessels, which have space for several dozen people, dock 100m west of the Tourism Port.
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Mittapheap Restaurant
Popular with Khmers travelling between Phnom Penh and Battambang, this airy eatery serves good-sized portions of mainly Khmer dishes.
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Mekong Restaurant
The small menu includes the basic Cambodian hit parade and a good interpretation of French beefsteak.
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