Things to do in Koh Ker
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Koh Ker
Koh Ker is one of the least-studied temple areas from the Angkorian period. Louis Delaporte visited in 1880 during his extensive investigations into Angkorian temples. It was surveyed in 1921 by the great Henri Parmentier for an article in the Bulletin de l'École d'Extrême Orient, but no restoration work was ever undertaken here. Archaeological surveys were carried out by Cambodian teams in the 1950s and 1960s.
But all records vanished during the destruction of the 1970s, helping to preserve this complex as something of an enigma. Several of the most impressive pieces in the National Museum in Phnom Penh come from Koh Ker, including the huge garuda (mythical half-man, h…
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Prasat Krahom
Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom, the second-largest structure at Koh Ker, which is named for the red bricks from which it is constructed. Sadly, none of the carved lions for which this temple was once known remain, though there's still plenty to see - stone archways and galleries lean hither and thither and impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns.
A naga-flanked causeway and series of sanctuaries, libraries and gates lead past trees and vegetation-covered ponds. Just west of Prasat Krahom, at the far end of a half-fallen colonnade, are the remains of an impressive statue of Nandin.
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Prasat Thom
The principal monument is Prasat Thom, a 55m-wide, 40m-high sandstone-faced pyramid with seven tiers that's just west of Prasat Krahom. This striking structure, which looks like it could almost be a Mayan site somewhere on the Yucatan Peninsula, offers some spectacular views across the forest from its summit. Look out for the giant garuda under the collapsed chamber at the top of the vertigo-inducing stairs. Some 40 inscriptions, dating from 932 to 1010, have been found at Prasat Thom.
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Ox-cart tours
Young people in dark khaki uniforms, members of the Apsara Authority's Community Heritage Patrol (www.autoriteapsara.org), keep an eye on the site, which is refreshingly clean and orderly. Ox-cart tours of the temples, lasting an hour-and-a-half, cost around US$12; proceeds go into a community development fund. For information on preservation and sustainable development plans for Koh Ker, visit www.heritagewatch.org.
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Prasat Thneng
Some of the largest Shiva linga (phallic symbols) in Cambodia can still be seen in four temples about 1km northeast of Prasat Thom. The largest is in Prasat Thneng , and Prasat Leung (Prasat Balang) is similarly well endowed.
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Rahal
South of this central group is a 1185m-by-548m baray (reservoir) known as the Rahal. It is fed by Stung Sen, which supplied water to irrigate the land in this arid area.
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