Banteay Chhmar
Good for: cultural discovery, moments of peace, a relaxing time, warm sense of humanity, Angkorian history
- Address
- Town Centre
- Price
- admission USUS$5
Lonely Planet review for Banteay Chhmar
Originally enclosed by a 9km-long wall, the temple housed one of the largest and most impressive Buddhist monasteries of the Angkorian period. Today, it is one of the few temples to feature the enigmatic, Bayon-style visages of Avalokiteshvara, with their mysterious - and world famous - smiles.
On the temple's east side, a huge bas-relief on a partly-toppled wall dramatically depicts naval warfare between the Khmers (on the left) and the Chams (on the right), with the dead - some being devoured by crocodiles - at the bottom. Further south (to the left) are scenes of land warfare with infantry and elephants. There are more martial bas-reliefs along the exterior of the temple's south walls.
The once-grand entry gallery is now a jumble of fallen sandstone blocks, though elsewhere a few intersecting galleries have withstood the ravages of time, as have some almost-hidden 12th-century inscriptions. All the remaining apsara (nymphs) have been decapitated by looters.
Banteay Chhmar was deservedly renowned for its intricate carvings, including scenes of daily life in the Angkorian period similar to those at Bayon. Unique to Banteay Chhmar was a sequence of eight multi-armed Avalokiteshvaras on the outside of the southern section of the temple's western ramparts, but six of these were hacked out and trucked into Thailand in a brazen act of looting in 1998. Still, the two that remain - one with 22 arms, the other with 32 - are spectacular.
There are as many as a dozen smaller temples in the vicinity of Banteay Chhmar, all in a ruinous state. These include Prasat Mebon, Prasat Ta Prohm, Prasat Prom Muk Buon, Prasat Yeay Choun, Prasat Pranang Ta Sok and Prasat Chiem Trey.
Traveller reviews for Banteay Chhmar (1)
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A real Cambodian experience of history, culture and life
andrewjmarino recommends this,
Banteay Chhmar is much like most of Cambodia. Rural, small villages, farmers and rugged roads. What makes it so special is the spectacular temple complex overgrown with trees and vines. 'How did they build it and why here?' will come to your mind. This is one of the largest temples from the great Angkorian era. There are stunning bas-reliefs and some Bayon-style face towers set in a very natural, undisturbed, non-commercial environment. A few of the satellite temples are equally special.There is truly an ethereal feeling walking around inside the temple complex.It's also a photographer's dream-come-true for some truly unique shots of Angkorian-era temples and village life.
There is a local community-based tourism (CBT) group that can help make your stay more enjoyable and comfortable. They have homestays, meals, tour guides and traditional activities like music and rice flattening. They can tell you about local life in the rice and cassava fields, growing vegetables and making handicrafts. There is also an excellent French-supported silk center in Banteay Chhmar. Banteay Chhmar is a great place to be during the Cambodian holidays like the Khmer New Year and Water Festival.
There's even a website giving you all the travel and visitor information you need.
www.visitbanteaychhmar.org
If you are interested in and care about Cambodia and the Khmer people, Banteay Chhmar will give you an excellent opportunity to learn more. You can get a true, unadulterated picture of Khmer history from Angkor, through Pol Pot (a nearby baray built during the regime), to now. All your senses will come alive as you wander around the temple, the village and area.
The people will be very welcoming, friendly and helpful. You'll find Banteay Chhmar to be a very special place and hopefully have long-lasting memories of the hospitality of the Khmer people.Good for: cultural discovery, moments of peace, a relaxing time, warm sense of humanity, Angkorian history
