Things to do in Northeastern Cambodia
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Irrawaddy Dolpin Watching
The main activity that draws visitors to Kratie is the chance to spot the elusive Irrawaddy river dolphin. Before the civil war, locals say, Cambodia was home to as many as 1000 dolphins. However, during the Pol Pot regime, many were hunted for their oils and their numbers have plummeted. Locals and experts alike believe there may be as few as 75 Irrawaddy dolphins left in the Mekong between Kratie and the Lao border near Don Khone.
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Koh Paen
Koh Paen is a rural island in the Mekong River, connected to the southern reaches of Kompong Cham town by an elaborate bamboo bridge in the dry season or a local ferry in the wet season. The bamboo bridge is an attraction in itself, totally built by hand each year and looking like it is made of matchsticks from afar. There are plenty of local wats on the island and locals make a living fishing, as well as growing tobacco and sesame.
During the dry season, several sandbars, the closest thing to a beach in this part of Cambodia, appear around the island. The best way to get about the island is by bicycle, which is possible to arrange through some of the budget guesthouses i…
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Koh Trong
Lying just across the water from Kratie is the island of Koh Trong, an almighty sandbar in the middle of the river. Cross here by boat with a bicycle in tow and enjoy a slice of rural island life. This could be the Don Khong of Cambodia in years to come and attractions include an old stupa and a small floating village, as well as the chance to encounter one of the rare Mekong mud turtles who inhabit the western shore.
Catch the little ferry from the port or charter a local boat (USaround US$2) to get here.
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Red Sun Falling
One of the liveliest little spots in town, this place kicks off when the owner puts on his party hat to play. A relaxed ambience, subtle tunes and a small bookshop by day, the kitchen turns out a solid selection of Asian and Western meals, including moist homemade brownies. By night, it's a bar and draws the drinkers.
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Lazy Mekong Daze
A Western spot on the riverfront, this is - as the name suggests - a relaxing place to while away some time. The menu includes Khmer and Thai classics, plus a selection of home-comfort food. Plus beer - it's run by a Brit after all.
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Sal's Restaurant & Bar
Set in a traditional wooden house on the edge of town, this is the place to come for comfort food from home, including Indian curries, spicy Mexican and great burgers. Service can be slow, but it's worth the wait.
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A'Dam Restaurant
This local restaurant doubles up as a bar by night, thanks to one of the only pool tables in Ban Lung and a dart board… almost a British pub.
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Elephant Valley Project
For an original elephant experience, visit the Elephant Valley Project. Part of the Elephants Livelihood Initiative Environment, visitors can learn the art of the mahout for a day. The trip starts with a tour of the project before learning about the body language of elephants. Students are then given the chance to try a series of short rides to build their confidence. After lunch, wannabee mahouts get the chance to experience a longer ride to a nearby waterfall.
After a dip in the water, it's possible to help wash down the elephants.It costs around US$50 per person per day up to a maximum of four people, although this number may rise as more elephants are brought into th…
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Virachay National Park treks
Many visitors opt for a trek into Virachay National Park, but be aware that some of these treks barely scrape the park itself, and spend much of the time in the park buffer zone. There are now multiday treks into the park, and these are a great way to explore one of the wildest and most remote areas in Cambodia.
The cost depends on the route, but figure on around US$15 to around US$25 a day for a good guide and more for transport, food and lodging along the way. Budget travellers really need to link up with a group to make it affordable. The best places to arrange trekking are Terres Rouges and Yaklom Hill Lodge. Recommended guesthouses can also help out with budget treks…
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Wat Nokor
The original fusion temple, Wat Nokor is a modern Theravada Buddhist pagoda squeezed into the walls of an 11th-century Mahayana Buddhist shrine of sandstone and laterite. It is a kitsch kind of place and many of the older building's archways have been incorporated into the new building as shrines for worship. On weekdays there are only a few monks in the complex and it is peaceful to wander among the many alcoves and their hidden shrines. There is also a large reclining Buddha.
To get here, head out of town on the road to Phnom Penh, and take the left fork at the large roundabout about 1km from town. The temple is at the end of this pretty dirt road.
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Trekking
Trekking has really started to take off around Ratanakiri, but it is important to make clear arrangements with your guide to ensure you get what is expected out of a trip. There are lots of popular routes that take in minority villages and scenic spots around the province, including Kreung villages near the road to Ta Veng, and Jarai villages up in Andong Meas district, but with deforestation continuing apace you need to be sure of conditions along the way.
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Elephant Treks
The villages of Phulung, 7km northeast of Sen Monorom, and Putang, 9km southwest of town, are the most popular places to arrange an elephant trek. Most of the recommended guesthouses around town, as well as the tourist office, can arrange day treks for around USaround US$30 or so, including lunch and transport to and from the village. It can get pretty uncomfortable up on top of an elephant after a couple of hours; carry a pillow to ease the strain.
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Wat Roka Kandal
Wat Roka Kandal is a beautiful little temple dating from the early 19th century, one of the oldest in the region. The roof is in the classic Khmer style and the interior has been turned into a showroom for local wicker handicrafts. Baskets, bags, slippers and more are available at giveaway prices, all to help local women in the province. The temple is about 2km south of Kratie on the road to Chhlong.
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Boeng Tonlé Meas
The advent of the bridge over the Mekong has brought a whole rash of restaurants on stilts to the other side of the river. Many are mini versions of those huge restaurants across the Chruoy Changvar Bridge in Phnom Penh. Some have live bands, others go for karaoke and all have a good range of Khmer favourites. Try the Boeng Tonlé Meas, regarded by many locals as the best of the bunch.
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Mahogany Guesthouse
This small guesthouse in the middle of town has eight rooms, all with hot water, and they are steadily being upgraded. Better still is the excellent restaurant, serving some of the best pizzas and pastas in the province, plus an unexpected range of authentic Indian and Nepalese food. It's also a fine spot for international breakfasts, including quality coffees.
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Old French Lighthouse
Looming over the Mekong River opposite town is an old French lighthouse. For years it was an abandoned shell, but has recently been renovated, including an incredibly steep metal staircase, more like a series of ladders. Don't attempt the climb if you are scared of heights, as it is a long way down. There are great views across the Mekong from the summit.
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Pnong villages
Trips out to the Pnong villages dotted across the province can be arranged through guesthouses and hotels, including an overnight stay with the community. Each guesthouse has a preferred village to send travellers to, which is a great way to spread the wealth.
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Mlop Duong Restaurant
It's a bit out of the way for riverfront aficionados, but if you have bolted down from the Lao border, this may be your first chance for a Khmer-style night out, complete with a local band and rom vong, the closest thing to line dancing in Cambodia.
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Gecko House
A charming little restaurant with inviting sofas and soft lighting, this is a great place by day or night. The menu features Thai tastes, Khmer classics and some Western dishes such as pizza, pasta and sandwiches. After dark it doubles as a lively bar.
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Hao An Restaurant
The original Kompong Cham diner is still going strong and draws a legion of Khmers criss-crossing the country. The menu includes a mix of Khmer and Chinese favourites and service is slick, including beer girls who plug their brands at any time of day.
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Phnom Bai Chuw
Check out the observation deck of Phnom Bai Chuw, 6km northwest of Sen Monorom, for a jaw-dropping view of the emerald forest. It looks as though you are seeing a vast sea of tree tops, hence the locals have named it Samot Cheur (Ocean of Trees).
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Mekong Crossing
Now on a prime corner on the riverfront, this old favourite serves an enticing mix of Khmer curries and Western favourites like big burgers and tasty sandwiches. By night, it doubles as a bar and draws a trickle of travellers in town.
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Bananas
Bananas is a new restaurant-bar serving up Western favourites like shepherd's pie and Flemish stew, with a dose of expat insight on life in Cambodia. By night, beers and spirits flow.
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Orchid Restaurant
Aside from guesthouse restaurants recommended, there is also the inviting Orchid Restaurant on the main drag, with some flavoursome Khmer and Chinese dishes on the menu.
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Boeng Kansaign Restaurant
Relax and unwind on the shores of the lake at this local restaurant. Khmer and Chinese dishes make up the menu and the breeze across the water is blissful on a hot day.
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