Getting there & away
NH7 puts Kratie 348km northeast of Phnom Penh and 141km south of Stung Treng. The road is surfaced all the way making the journeys straightforward. SPPT (092 181806) has buses to Phnom Penh (US$5, five hours) at 7.15am and 9am; and one to Stung Treng (18, 000r, two hours) at 1.30pm. Hua Lian (012 535387) has buses to Phnom Penh (US$4, five hours) at 7.15/9/10.45am; the Lao border at Voen Kham (US$10, four hours) at 1.30pm; Sen Monorom (US$10, five hours) at 9am; and Banlung (US$12, six hours) at 12.30pm. Rith Mony (012 991663) has buses to Phnom Penh (US$5, five hours) at 7.30am and 9.30am; and one to Stung Treng (18, 000r, two hours) at 1.30pm.
More frequent and faster are share taxis that cost about US$4 per place to Kompong Cham and US$7 to Phnom Penh. Most taxis take the dirt road south through Chhlong to Suong district to save money on petrol and that means just four hours to the capital.
For motorbikers, there is a more scenic dry-season route that follows the Mekong River. Take the river road north out of Kompong Cham as far as Stung Trang (pronounced Trong) district and cross the Mekong on a small ferry before continuing up the east bank of the Mekong through Chhlong to Kratie. This is a very beautiful ride through small rural villages and takes about four hours or so on a trail bike.