Things to do in Burkina Faso
-
Moro-Naba Palace Ceremony
Such is the influence of the Moro-Naba of Ouagadougou, the emperor of the Mossi and the most powerful traditional chief in Burkina Faso, that the government will still make a show of consulting him before making any major decision. The portly present Moro-Naba (the 37th) is, typically for his dynasty, an imposing figure.
The Moro-Naba ceremony (la cérémonie du Nabayius Gou), takes place every Friday at the Moro-Naba Palace. It's a very formal ritual that lasts only about 15 minutes. Prominent Mossis arrive by taxi, car and moped (also known as mobylettes), greet each other and sit on the ground according to rank: in the first row sit the Moro-Naba's spokesman and his…
reviewed
-
A
Grande Mosquée
The Grande Mosquée, built in 1893, is an outstanding example of Sahel-style mud architecture, with conical towers and wooden struts (which both support the structure and act as scaffolding during replastering). Although entry is forbidden for non-Muslims, it's the exterior that is so captivating, especially at sunset when the façade turns golden and the faithful pass by on their way home or to the neighbouring well, often pausing for prayer in the mosque en route.
A powerful sense of community life revolves around the mosque. The quiet and shady grounds in the immediate vicinity are interspersed with shelters and prayer mats for worshippers, and add to the charm of one…
reviewed
-
B
Grand Marché
Bobo-Dioulasso's centrepiece, the expansive Grand Marché, is hugely enjoyable and atmospheric, and a wonderful (and largely hassle-free) place to experience a typical African city market.
Occupying the inner circle are the fruit and vegetable stalls, watched over by colourfully clad women and surrounded by the overwhelming odours of the fish and meat sections. From here to the market's outer rim, impossibly narrow and labyrinthine lanes and makeshift stalls stock household wares and an excellent selection of African cotton prints - as well as reasonably priced tailors who can make clothing from them in a flash. There's a small choice of masks, drums and objects in bronze…
reviewed
-
Éspace Gondwana
Wow! Tucked away to the east of Ouaga, this stunning restaurant is the city's most atmospheric. The restaurant has a courtyard where music is often played, and the three dining rooms are richly adorned with masks (all for sale) and traditional furniture. Each room is themed in a different style - Gourounsi, Mauritanian and a Tuareg tent. The food is also splendid, from the brochette de capitaine, sauce Hollandaise and bite-sized tapas to the banana cake for dessert. It also has the widest selection of masks that we found in Ouaga, and prices are agreeable. Everything's for sale here (including the furnishings) except, as one waiter pointed out, the staff.
There's also a…
reviewed
-
Grande Mosquée
The Grande Mosquée, built in 1893, is an outstanding example of Sahel-style mud architecture, with conical towers and wooden struts (which both support the structure and act as scaffolding during replastering).
Although entry is forbidden for non-Muslims, it's the exterior that is so captivating, especially at sunset when the façade turns golden and the faithful pass by on their way home or to the neighbouring well, often pausing for prayer in the mosque en route. A powerful sense of community life revolves around the mosque. The quiet and shady grounds in the immediate vicinity are interspersed with shelters and prayer mats for worshippers, and add to the charm of one…
reviewed
-
Musée National
After its long-awaited move to new premises, the Musée National has been left a little out on a limb, almost 10km east of the town centre. The displays of the various masks, ancestral statues (especially from Lobi country) and traditional costumes of Burkina Faso's major ethnic groups are the highlights.
The museum is still a work-in-progress - the various dusty pavilions (one for each region of the country) are marooned and somewhat bereft in the expansive grounds, and the labelling (French-only) is haphazard. To get there, take a taxi, or take Sotrao bus 1 which runs from the city centre along Ave de la Nation.
reviewed
-
C
Musée De La Musique
The Musée De La Musique is a good place to spend an hour if you have an interest in traditional music. The uncluttered displays in an imaginatively designed exhibition space include tambours (drums), flutes, xylophones and luth (harps) from around the country. Among the highlights are the impressive lan or castagnettes de pieds (foot castanets).
There are informative labels in French throughout, and a guide will show you around (a tip is appreciated) but it's only worthwhile if you speak French; otherwise he'll simply point and say 'drum'.
reviewed
-
Cascades de Karfiguéla (Karfiguéla waterfalls)
The Karfiguéla Waterfalls are at their best during and just after the rainy season when, unfortunately, the dirt tracks leading to the falls can be impassable. But, whatever the season, it's worth the journey.
From below, you approach the falls through a magnificent avenue of mango trees, and the chaotic jumble of rocks over which the water splays are a sight in themselves.
From the waterfalls, you can walk or ride the 2km (1.2mi) to the Dômes de Fabedougou, an escarpment-type formation good for rock climbing.
reviewed
-
Thomas Sankara's Grave
Thomas Sankara's Grave is on the depressing and ill-kept eastern outskirts of Ouagadougou, and is one of a number in the area belonging to high-profile supporters of his government. There's not a lot to see, but it's a poignant reminder of a more hopeful time in Burkina Faso's recent history and a site of enormous political significance. The grave is about 6km east of the city centre.
To get there, charter a taxi for the hour, although some drivers won't take you because roads close to the grave are in a dire state.
reviewed
-
D
Restaurant Akwaba
Friendly service, decent African food and spectacularly kitsch ceiling fans (they even turn them on sometimes but only when you ask) are the order of the day here. The mainly Ivorian dishes take a while to prepare but the foutou (sticky yam or plantain paste) is strangely addictive and goes perfectly with the poulet de kedjenou (slowly simmered chicken with peppers and tomatoes). The brochette de capitaine also stands out.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
E
Musée Provincial du Houët
This small but interesting museum showcases masks, statues and ceremonial dress from all over Burkina Faso. In the grounds are three traditional houses, each furnished in the style of its inhabitants: a Bobo house in red banco (mud-brick); a Fulani hut of branches and woven straw; and a small Senoufo (a Voltaic people who settled in northern Côte d'Ivoire and southern Burkina Faso 400 years ago) compound.
reviewed
-
F
Le Coq Bleu
You get what you pay for here - the menu is pricey but the French cooking is of the highest order. It's the sort of place to consider when you've been on the African road for a while and you're looking to stimulate jaded taste buds with a touch of class. The blue décor is tasteful and soothing, but the schmaltzy background music will have you scraping off the wallpaper. It also has a well-stocked bar.
reviewed
-
G
Sindabal's
Most travellers who come to Ouaga on a budget end up here at some point. It's a low-key place with a varied menu (including spaghetti bolognese and some Lebanese dishes) and the only downside - vaguely disconcerting street smells at the outdoor tables if the wind's blowing the wrong way - could easily apply to any outdoor place in town. It's not a brilliant place but it's one of a kind in Ouaga.
reviewed
-
H
Restaurant l'Eau Vive
This Ouagadougou institution is run by an order of nuns and promises an air-conditioned haven from the clamour outside; there's also a garden dining area out the back. The menu is mainly French but has the occasional nod to African flavours. Profits go to the order's charitable works and, for the truly surreal bit, don't be surprised if you're there at 21:30 and the nuns burst into song.
reviewed
-
I
Baratapas
Baratapas, just around the corner from the STMB bus station, comes very close to being our new favourite place in Ouaga. The courtyard is filled with the innovative work of local artists and occasional exhibitions, the food is excellent and creative, and Alain, the owner, is a delight. The salads in particular are enormous. In short, we can't recommend this place highly enough.
reviewed
-
J
Restaurant l'Entente
This simple restaurant has a wide-ranging menu of African and European staples, but it's a rare day that all menu items are available. Waiters are laid-back and friendly, but the best thing about this place are the street-facing tables on the veranda - a wonderfully chilled place to watch the streetlife of Bobo passing by. It's also one of the few restaurants to do breakfast.
reviewed
-
K
Restaurant de Chine
If you believe expats and wealthy locals (and there's no reason not to) this is Ouaga's best Chinese restaurant. After spending time in Ouaga's markets you'll wonder where they get the fine cuts of meat and the freshest of ingredients. Not surprisingly, it's a popular place, especially on weekends when the extensive and varied menu and the attentive service draw the crowds.
reviewed
-
Musée de la Musique
This is small but recommended for those with an emerging passion for African music, as well as those keen to learn the difference between a balafon and djembe. Most of the instruments on display (labels in French only) come from western Burkina Faso (especially from Lobi country). There's a small shop selling CDs of local traditional music which you won't find elsewhere.
reviewed
-
Nomadic West Africa Eastbound
- Mali, The Gambia, Senegal, Dakar, Burkina Faso, Ghana, Accra, World
- Tours › Overland
by Intrepid
Not LP reviewed
from USD$3,775 -
Tour Guide - Eugene Compaoré
Ouagadougou is an easy city to navigate on your own, but to see more than just the tourist sites, contact the excellent Tour Guide, Eugene Compaoré, who speaks French, English and Spanish. He is experienced at finding everything from buzzing Ouaga nightlife away from the expat crowd to the ideal place for getting your hair braided. Prices are negotiable.
reviewed
Advertisement
-
L
Monopole Plus
This pleasant outdoor bar-restaurant does salads, brochettes and sandwiches for starters, and a range of African-flavoured beef, chicken and fish dishes for mains. The yassa poulet riz blanc is especially good. There's also a swimming pool around which are pleasant straw paillotes and, in the evening, wealthy locals looking to pick up.
reviewed
-
AGTB
A private association of 20 guides, offering tours around Bobo (including to the workshop for people with a disability with whom the association works) and further afield. Although a guide is not really necessary for exploring Bobo, you'll benefit from having one if you're planning on venturing further afield in the southwest of the country.
reviewed
-
M
Maquis Le Pouvoir
This central and popular outdoor place offers good and well-priced African staples, with plenty of foutou and grilled meats, and a few nods to European tastes in the form of hamburgers. It's a slightly classier atmosphere than your average maquis and is as popular with expats as with locals. Highly recommended.
reviewed
-
N
Zaka
Right in the heart of Ouaga, Zaka is a hybrid live performance venue and cultural centre, with groups playing traditional or modern music from around 20:30 (sometimes there's a small cover charge but usually it's free). At other times it's a pleasant open-air watering hole, something that is an oasis for this part of town.
reviewed
-
O
Restaurant Dan Kan
With agreeable outdoor (but covered) tables, very reasonable prices and a varied menu, Restaurant Dan Kan is an excellent deal. It's kept spotlessly clean and service is attentive. If you just eat riz sauce or couscous and drink tamarind juice, you'll be well-fed. Highly recommended.
reviewed