Moro-Naba Palace Ceremony

Such is the influence of the Moro-Naba of Ouagadougou, the emperor of the Mossi and the most powerful traditional chief in Burkina Faso, that the government will still make a show of consulting him before making any major decision. The portly present Moro-Naba (the 37th) is, typically for his dynasty, an imposing figure.

The Moro-Naba ceremony (la cérémonie du Nabayius Gou), takes place every Friday at the Moro-Naba Palace. It's a very formal ritual that lasts only about 15 minutes. Prominent Mossis arrive by taxi, car and moped (also known as mobylettes), greet each other and sit on the ground according to rank: in the first row sit the Moro-Naba's spokesman and his chief ministers and, behind them, other dignitaries sit in descending order of seniority. The Moro-Naba appears, dressed in red, the symbol for war, accompanied by his saddled and elaborately decorated horse. There's a cannon shot, his most senior subjects approach to give obeisance and His Majesty retires, while his horse is unsaddled and beats the boundaries of his palace at a brisk trot.

The Moro-Naba reappears, dressed all in white (a sign of peace) and his servants invite his subjects to the palace for a drink; millet beer for the animists and a Kola nut concoction for the Muslims. It's much more than an excuse for an early morning tipple as, within the palace, the Moro-Naba gives audience and hands down his verdict on local disputes and petty crimes. The preceding ritual serves to reinforce the Mossi social order.

The story behind the ceremony? As so often in Africa, there are several conflicting versions. The predominant one recounts how the Ouahigouya Mossi had stolen the Ouagadougou people's main fetish. As the king made ready for war, his ministers persuaded him to desist and undertook to recover the fetish.

To be able to view the ceremony, approach the compound from the east. It's a traditional ceremony, not something put on for tourists. Photos during the ceremony are not permitted.