Things to do in Veliko Târnovo
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Bally
This new club playing hip-hop and techno has both its supporters and detractors. With its large central dance floor, it can seem empty unless there’s a weekend crowd.
reviewed
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Tsarevets Fortress
The inescapable symbol of this proud medieval town, this reconstructed fortress dominates the skyline, and is one of Bulgaria's most beloved monuments. The Tsarevets Museum-Reserve is located on Tsarevets Hill, which has been settled since time immemorial due to its strategic location. Thracians and Romans used it as a defensive position, but the Byzantines built the first significant fortress here between the 5th and 7th centuries.
The fortress was rebuilt and fortified by the Slavs and Bulgars between the 8th and 10th centuries, and again by the Byzantines in the early 12th century. When Târnovgrad became the Second Bulgarian Empire's capital, the fortress was truly mag…
reviewed
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Tsarevets Museum-Reserve
The inescapable symbol of this proud medieval town, this reconstructed fortress dominates the skyline, and is one of Bulgaria’s most beloved monuments. The Tsarevets Museum-Reserve is located on Tsarevets Hill, which has been settled since time immemorial due to its strategic location. Thracians and Romans used it as a defensive position, but the Byzantines built the first significant fortress here between the 5th and 7th centuries. The fortress was rebuilt and fortified by the Slavs and Bulgars between the 8th and 10th centuries, and again by the Byzantines in the early 12th century. When Târnovgrad became the Second Bulgarian Empire’s capital, the fortress was truly m…
reviewed
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Samovodska Charshiya Complex
Roughly opposite the Hotel Bolyarski, ul Rakovski veers upwards from the main road, ul Stambolov. On and behind it is the Samovodska Charshiya Complex, the town's historic centre of craftsmanship; blacksmiths, potters and gunsmiths, among other artisans, still practice their trades here. The numerous bookshops and purveyors of antiques, jewellery and art are also housed in appealing Bulgarian National Revival houses.
It's a great place for shopping, or just a stroll, as is the equally appealing old residential quarter of Varosha just above it.At the beginning of ul Rakovski, a prominent map signposts the name and location of each shop in the charshiya, in both Bulgarian a…
reviewed
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Church of Sveti Dimitâr
Across the river, enclosed by a high wall, is Târnovo’s oldest church, the beautifully proportioned Church of Sveti Dimitâr. Built in the so-called Târnovo style, it was named after St Dimitrios, patron saint of Thessaloniki in northern Greece. During the church’s consecration in 1185, Tsars Asen and Petâr proclaimed an uprising against Byzantine rule, which would create the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185–1396). It’s often closed, but a warden at the Church of Sveti Petar & Pavel can open it on request.
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Shtastlivetsa
[ourpick] Shtastlivetsa Hands down the most popular place in town for both locals and foreigners, the ‘Lucky Man’ (as the impossible-to-pronounce name means in Bulgarian) has a great menu of inventive meat dishes, baked-pot specials, nourishing pizzas and (at lunchtime) delicious soups. It’s good value, considering the high quality. The service is generally good, though sometimes comically formal.
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Church of Sveti Petar & Pavel
Two blocks north, the late-13th-century Church of Sveti Petar & Pavel features three layers of remarkable 11th- and 17th-century murals. This is the most interesting of the churches, mainly as there are some surviving early-11th-century wall paintings. The best preserved is in the corner to the left of the altar, where Jesus on the cross is being comforted by the Virgin Mary.
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State Art Museum
Dramatically situated in a tight bend of the Yantra River, the State Art Museum contains paintings of Veliko Târnovo and the region by numerous artists. The 2nd floor exhibits more artworks, mostly on permanent loan from galleries in Silistra, Dobrich and Ruse. Guided tours (in English and French) are available for about 5 lv extra per person; entry is free on Thursdays.
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House-Museum
Built in 1861 by a rich Turkish merchant and moneylender, this fine five-storey National Revival–period style house-museum displays antique ceramics, metalwork, woodcarvings and jewellery, and has some fascinating exhibits about traditional costumes and breadmaking. Revival-period furniture fills the upper floor, along with vintage family photos on the walls.
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Archaeological Museum
Housed in a grand old building with a colonnaded terrace and courtyard full of Roman sculptures, the archaeological museum contains Roman artefacts from Nikopolis-ad-Istrum and more Roman pottery and statues from elsewhere. Medieval Bulgarian exhibits include huge murals of the tsars, while there’s also some ancient gold from nearby Neolithic settlements.
reviewed
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Cinema Arena
The latest Hollywood films are on at Cinema Arena in the new shopping centre, Central Mall, which also has a nightclub, bowling alley and casino. (A taxi is the easiest way to get there.) In addition to the mall, the new town, little-visited by tourists, is where many students reside and thus also offers heavy-duty entertainment during term.
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Icons Krasimir Ivanov
Krasimir Ivanov has been painting icons since the fall of communism, when religious art was allowed again. His detailed ink sketches of old Târnovo (20 lv), displayed outside the shop are another excellent take-home memento. The shop doubles as Krasimir’s workshop, so you can watch him painstakingly painting while you browse.
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Ego Pizza & Grill
Located upstairs from Scream Dance Club, this spacious place has an outdoor balcony with excellent views. Massive salads, Bulgarian cuisine, Serbian mixed grills and more obscure Chinese and Mexican dishes are on offer. A second location, right beside the popular Pepy’s Bar has a more snug bistro feel and friendly, gorgeous staff.
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Church of Sveti Georgi
The nearby Church of Sveti Georgi, probably built in 1612 on medieval church ruins, was initially destroyed by the Ottoman invaders, but restored during their rule in the early 18th century. It boats impressive murals inside. The Tsarevets Fortress ticket office arranges visits.
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Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa
There are also notable frescoes at the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa, the town’s main cathedral. Located just off ul Ivan Vazov, the church’s large green neo-Byzantine domes distinguish it on the old town’s skyline.
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Pepy’s Bar
[ourpick] Pepy’s Bar If you were an expat in Târnovo, Pepy’s might well be your local. The dark-lit, popular bar doesn’t put on airs like the more studenty places; it’s just a cosy, chilled-out nightspot with subdued style.
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Magazin za Manasta
You’ll recognise this cosy shop from the sign out front reading ‘hand-made jewelry’, and the walls lined with brightly coloured glass and silver beads. Buy them by the piece, or choose from the many unique necklaces.
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Forty Martyrs Church
The Forty Martyrs Church, in the old Asenova quarter, was originally built in 1230 to celebrate Tsar Asen II’s victory over the Byzantines. It was used as a royal mausoleum, and then as a mosque by the Turks.
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Shekerdzinitsa
This lovely little café with traditional furnishings in the old market is the place to go for real Turkish coffee –appealingly prepared the old-school way, in a diminutive copper pot run across a basin of heated sand.
reviewed
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Museum
This museum, in a former Turkish town hall built in 1872, was where Bulgaria’s first National Assembly was held seven years later to write the country’s first constitution.
reviewed
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Hiking
Numerous local operators offer hiking. For more information contact the Tourist Information Centre; the helpful staff provides special hiking maps and can link you with the right people.
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Caving
Numerous local operators offer caving. For more information contact the Tourist Information Centre; the helpful staff provides special hiking maps and can link you with the right people.
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Church of the Assumption
The tiny Church of the Assumption, built in 1923 over a ruined 14th-century church, is usually closed, but it's very pretty with blue-painted bas-reliefs decorating its sides.
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Jack
This pumping student club for knavish lads and short-skirted girls is named for the American whisky, and is especially popular on weekends with house music and dancing.
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Monument of the Asens
The Monument of the Asens is an awe-inspiring commemoration of the establishment of the Second Bulgarian Empire in 1185; there are great views over the town and river.
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