Things to do in Central Balkans
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Neolithic Dwellings Museum
Two 8000-year-old Stone Age houses are partially preserved in a secure and airtight environment at the Neolithic Dwellings Museum. These modest one-room homes were abandoned after a fire several millennia ago, making them among the Balkans’ best preserved Neolithic dwellings.
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Café Antik
This café-restaurant, located behind the folk museum and with relaxing views of the river, is a good bet for coffee on the terrace when it’s warm out, or a shot of the very strong Troyan brandy when it’s cold. It also does some inventive (though relatively expensive) meat dishes.
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Katmi
This local take-away institution, off a side entrance on the square, offers delicious palachinki (pancakes) – much better than the usual Balkan crepe – with a choice of 122 different combinations. A pancake with all-natural blueberry and strawberry jam is especially tasty.
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Church of Sveti Georgi
The nearby Church of Sveti Georgi, probably built in 1612 on medieval church ruins, was initially destroyed by the Ottoman invaders, but restored during their rule in the early 18th century. It boats impressive murals inside. The Tsarevets Fortress ticket office arranges visits.
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Pod Starata Krusha
Right next to the bus station, this cosy little tavern is a nice choice for a traditional evening meal or a quick breakfast (it even has Turkish coffee) before your bus departs. Renowned Targovista wine from the Veliko Târnovo area is served, accompanied by traditional Bulgarian music.
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Mehana 20 April
This friendly place, on the edge of the square of the same name and close to the Tourist Information Centre, offers a short menu of traditional Koprivshtitsa dishes, as well as deliciously done freshwater fish. Dining is enjoyed indoors or (much better) in an attractive back courtyard.
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Restaurant Vereya
Close to but not part of the eponymous hotel, the Vereya aims at gourmet status and offers a wide selection of specialities, ranging from pizzas to unusual meat dishes and some innovative vegetarian options as well. Seating is both indoors and outdoors on the lively square.
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Eski Mosque
One of Bulgaria’s oldest Muslim shrines, Eski Mosque dates to the 15th century, and resides along the mall. Although decidedly abandoned, it remains an interesting sight from outside and a special addition to Stara Zagora’s skyline.
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Restaurant Moskva
This very busy and efficiently run place off the other side of the square is most popular at lunch, when you take a tray and get in line, choosing from a variety of Balkan specialities. It’s smartly outfitted and clean, and there’s also a bar.
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St Archangel Michael’s Church
Overlooking the square is the slate-roofed St Archangel Michael’s Church, Tryavna’s oldest church, which is magically lit at night. Burnt down by the Turks but rebuilt in 1819, it boasts intricate Tryavna school woodcarvings.
reviewed
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Museum of Icons
Housed in a former chapel, Tryavna’s second, larger Museum of Icons contains over 160 religious icons from the erstwhile collections of famous local families. The museum is beyond the train line, and signposted from ul PR Slaveikov.
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History Museum
Along the mall, the History Museum occupies a grand old building of three floors that house archaeological and ethnological items such as coins, weapons and books. The best exhibits concern the revolutionary struggle against the Turks.
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Mehana Popsheitanova Kushta
This wood-framed traditional restaurant has big outdoor benches and big portions, too. Try the chicken shishle ‘special’ (skewered chicken interspersed with cooked red peppers, onions, tomatoes and a little mushroom on the side).
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Pokritiyat Most
Just past the Hotel Lovech is the Pokritiyat Most - the Balkan's only such structure. Built in 1872, and completely restored twice since, it once again features its original wooden design. Arts and crafts shops, as well as cafés, are found within.
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Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa
There are also notable frescoes at the Church of Sveta Bogoroditsa, the town’s main cathedral. Located just off ul Ivan Vazov, the church’s large green neo-Byzantine domes distinguish it on the old town’s skyline.
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Geo Milev Drama Theatre
The City Garden is one of Bulgaria’s best: clean, with plenty of shade, new seats and functioning fountains. Behind it is the Geo Milev Drama Theatre, built in 1914, where popular performances are still held.
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Nightclub Colosseum
Drunken Bulgarians, aerosol cans and a lighter might seem a dangerous combination, but there are even hotter things besides 6ft-high flames inside this big student nightclub. Different theme nights range from student nights to DJ parties and retro.
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Museum
This brick museum on the main road exhibits numerous Thracian and Roman artefacts from Madara, Veliki Preslav and Pliska. Ancient coins, icons and a scale model of the Shumen Fortress as it was in its heyday are also on display.
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Clock Tower
The Clock Tower, on the site of Bulgaria's first insurance company, is a popular meeting point. Located on the square at the corner of ul Alexandrovska and ul Daskalov, the clock tower stands, of course, over the Honorary Consulate of Mongolia.
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Pepy’s Bar
[ourpick] Pepy’s Bar If you were an expat in Târnovo, Pepy’s might well be your local. The dark-lit, popular bar doesn’t put on airs like the more studenty places; it’s just a cosy, chilled-out nightspot with subdued style.
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Bulgarian Mountain Tours
Guided nature tours, walking, paragliding, cultural trips and rock climbing trips are offered by Richard and Deborah Adams of Bulgarian Mountain Tours, which is based in the village of Vasil Levski, a 10-minute drive southeast of Karlovo.
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Magazin za Manasta
You’ll recognise this cosy shop from the sign out front reading ‘hand-made jewelry’, and the walls lined with brightly coloured glass and silver beads. Buy them by the piece, or choose from the many unique necklaces.
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Forty Martyrs Church
The Forty Martyrs Church, in the old Asenova quarter, was originally built in 1230 to celebrate Tsar Asen II’s victory over the Byzantines. It was used as a royal mausoleum, and then as a mosque by the Turks.
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Shekerdzinitsa
This lovely little café with traditional furnishings in the old market is the place to go for real Turkish coffee –appealingly prepared the old-school way, in a diminutive copper pot run across a basin of heated sand.
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Museum
This museum dedicated to the leader of the 19th-century rebel movement is set in a lovely building and features several rooms of furniture (including antique weaving equipment) set around a cobblestone courtyard.
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