Things to do in Shumen
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Dom na Architekta
This wood-and-stone traditional tavern has great Bulgarian specialities, served in a balmy back garden in summer, moving indoors in front of a crackling fire in winter.
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Shumen Fortress
Towering over the city from a steep hillside, the Shumen Fortress dates originally to the early Iron Age. It was augmented and reinforced by the Thracians in the 5th century BC, and between the 2nd and 4th centuries AD, the Romans added towers and more walls. It was again fortified later on by the Byzantines, who made it an important garrison. During the Second Bulgarian Empire (1185–1396), the fortress was one of northeast Bulgaria’s most significant settlements, renowned for its pottery and metalwork. However, invading Ottomans in the late 14th century burnt and looted the fortress.
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Creators of the Bulgarian State Monument
This massive, Soviet-era hilltop Creators of the Bulgarian State Monument was built in 1981 to commemorate the First Bulgarian Empire's 1300th anniversary. To get here on foot, climb the staircase behind the History Museum. The 3km path leads from the equally Communist Partisan's Monument. The circuitous 5km road going there starts along ul Sv Karel Shkorpil at the History Museum. Go by taxi (3.50 lv one-way), and then just walk back down the steps leading to the city centre.
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B
Tombul Mosque
Arguably Bulgaria’s most beautiful mosque, and definitely the largest still in use, Shumen’s Tombul Mosque was built in 1744. Also called the Sherif Halili Pasha Mosque, its Turkish nickname, tombul (plump) refers to the shape of its 25m-high dome. The 40m-high minaret has 99 steps. According to local Muslim belief, the courtyard fountain gushes sacred water. An informative leaflet (in English and French) is available.
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C
Museum Complex of Pancho Vladigerov
One of several National Revival and early-20th-century baroque houses dotted along the cobblestone western section of ul Tsar Osvoboditel is the Museum Complex of Pancho Vladigerov, commemorating Bulgaria’s most renowned composer and pianist. The handsome structures include a library, set around a shady courtyard garden.
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D
10th Town Café
The name of this sleek café refers to Shumen’s rank among Bulgarian cities. It aspires, with its wireless connection, colourful décor and Spanish coffee, to scale new cosmopolitan heights. The café offers that relative rarity in the Balkans, a room for nonsmokers, plus a summer garden.
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E
Katmi
This local take-away institution, off a side entrance on the square, offers delicious palachinki (pancakes) – much better than the usual Balkan crepe – with a choice of 122 different combinations. A pancake with all-natural blueberry and strawberry jam is especially tasty.
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F
Mehana Popsheitanova Kushta
This wood-framed traditional restaurant has big outdoor benches and big portions, too. Try the chicken shishle ‘special’ (skewered chicken interspersed with cooked red peppers, onions, tomatoes and a little mushroom on the side).
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G
Nightclub Colosseum
Drunken Bulgarians, aerosol cans and a lighter might seem a dangerous combination, but there are even hotter things besides 6ft-high flames inside this big student nightclub. Different theme nights range from student nights to DJ parties and retro.
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Museum
This brick museum on the main road exhibits numerous Thracian and Roman artefacts from Madara, Veliki Preslav and Pliska. Ancient coins, icons and a scale model of the Shumen Fortress as it was in its heyday are also on display.
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H
Biraria Regal
Like the Dom na Architekta, this traditional mehana (tavern) further east on ul Tsar Osvoboditel enjoys a leafy garden setting and offers a good selection of grills and salads.
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Club Retro
This café in the park is good for a relaxing coffee by day, or for cocktails at night. There’s salsa dancing on Fridays.
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Biraria Guinness
This beer hall across from Mehana Popsheitanova Kushta is a popular nightspot with locals, going well into the wee hours.
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