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British Virgin Islands

Getting around

Ferries are the primary mode of transportation between islands and a great way to meet locals. None of the islands has public bus service.

Boat

The islands have a frequent and inexpensive ferry service that’s easy to navigate, despite convoluted schedules. The full schedules are printed in most of the tourism guides, including the BVI Welcome Guide (www.bviwelcome.com).

Beef island to north sound

North Sound Express (495-2138) runs ferries from Trellis Bay on Beef Island (near Tortola’s airport) to the north end of Virgin Gorda, stopping at the Valley (one way US$25, 20 minutes), Bitter End (one way US$35, 45 minutes) and Leverick Bay (one way US$20, 15 minutes). Reservations are required.

West end to jost van dyke

New Horizon Ferry (495-9278; www.jostvandykeferry.com; round trip US$20) sails five times daily between Tortola’s West End and Jost’s Great Harbour.

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Car & motorcycle

Road town to anegada

Smith’s Ferry (494-4454; www.smithsferry.com; round trip US$50) sails from Road Town, Tortola on Monday, Wednesday and Friday at 7am and 3:30pm; it departs Anegada at 8:30am and 5pm. The boat makes a quick stop at Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda, each way.

Road town to spanish town

Speedy’s (495-5240; www.speedysbvi.com) and Smith’s Ferry (494-4454; www.smithsferry.com) run trips between Road Town, Tortola and Spanish Town, Virgin Gorda almost half-hourly (round trip US$25, 30 minutes).

Car

Driving is undoubtedly the most convenient way to get around individual islands, but be prepared for some crazy conditions. Steep, winding roads are often the same width as your car. Chickens and dogs dart in and out of the roadway and, oh, did we mention the goats? Driving is on the left-hand side. Most cars come from the US, so the steering wheel is on the left-hand side of the vehicle.

Drivers often stop dead in the middle of the road. Watch for the flap: when drivers are about to do something (stop, turn etc), they flap their arm out the window. Be careful not to lose your keys; there are no locksmiths on the islands.

Rental

There are several good local car-rental agencies on the islands. Often the vehicles are jeeps. High-season rates begin at about US$55 per day and can run as high as US$90, but you’ll get a better price for a weekly rental.

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Local transport

Taxi

Taxis are convenient and essential if you’re not renting a car. Several are the open-air variety, with bench seats and awnings, able to carry up to 12 passengers; others are vans. Taxis do not have meters; fares are set rates.

Beef Island Taxi Association (495-1982)

BVI Taxi Association (494-3942)

Waterfront Taxi Stand (494-6362)

West End Taxi Association (495-4934)

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Air

To fly between islands you’ll have to charter a plane. Fly BVI (495-1747, 866-819-3146; www.fly-bvi.com) is a well-regarded company that flies not only within the BVIs but to islands throughout the Caribbean.

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Things to do