Things to do in The Southeast
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Bacalhau do Tuga
Since opening in 2009, the ‘Tuga’ (Portuguese guy) has been drawing throngs of people to this beachfront hole-in-the-wall, mixing classic Portuguese codfish recipes with local specialties such as peixe grelhado com molho de manga (grilled fish with mango sauce).
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A Bela Paulista
This very agreeable, upscale bakery is especially popular with the gay Paulistano community for its gourmet sandwiches and salads served around the clock. Expect lines in the wee hours as clubs start to close.
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Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP)
Sampa's pride, the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) museum possesses Latin America's most comprehensive collection of Western art. Hovering above a concrete plaza that turns into an antiques fair on Sundays, the museum, designed by architect Lina Bo Bardi and completed in 1968, is considered a classic of modernism by many and an abomination by a vocal few. The collection, though, is unimpeachable, and ranges from Goya to El Greco to Manet.
The Impressionist collection is particularly impressive. There are also a few great Brazilian paintings, including three fine works by Cândido Portinari. The museum hosts temporary exhibits, and there is a bright, pleasant cafeteria o…
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Parque do Ibirapuera
The biggest green space in central São Paulo, Parque do Ibirapuera makes a fine escape from the city's seemingly infinite stretches of concrete. In addition, the leafy 2-sq-km park serves as a thriving center of the city's cultural life, with a series of museums, performance spaces and the grounds for São Paulo's renowned Bienal.
Inaugurated in 1954 to commemorate the city's 400th anniversary, the park was designed by renowned landscape architect Roberto Burle Marx. A series of landmark buildings in the park are the work of modernist master Oscar Niemeyer; most of them are linked by a long and distinctively serpentine covered walkway.
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Beaches
Within the district of Ubatuba, there are some 74 beaches and 15 islands. Regular buses run along the coastal road. Some of the best beaches south of Ubatuba include Praia Vermelha (3km), Enseada (8km), Flamengo (12km, on the Ponta do Flamengo), do Lázaro (16km) and Domingos Dias (18km). The big, loud party scene is 6km south of Ubatuba at Praia Grande.
North of town, the beaches are hidden away down steep hillsides. They're harder to find, but good for boogie boarding and surfing and well worth the effort. Among the best are Vermelha do Norte (9km); Itamambuca (15km), Promirim (23km) and Ubatumirim (33km).
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Pinacoteca do Estado
This elegant neoclassical Pinacoteca do Estado museum houses an excellent collection of Brazilian - and especially Paulista - art from the 19th century to present, including works by big names such as Portinari and Di Cavalcanti. Extensive renovations have made it a pleasant place to while away a rainy afternoon, and there is an attractive café that spills out into the adjacent Parque da Luz.
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Museu da Língua Portuguesa
Half of Estação da Luz has been given over to this recently inaugurated Museu da Língua Portuguesa museum, with fascinating permanent exhibits documenting the rise of the Brazilian language as distinct from European Portuguese, as well as creative temporary installations celebrating Brazilian literature. Note, though, that all accompanying signs are in Portuguese only.
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Gero
Part of the Fasano family of high-end restaurants, Gero occupies a beautifully minimalist, brick-lined dining room that attracts a lively, fashion-conscious crowd with its brilliantly executed Italian fare, like polenta with squid in its own ink, and homemade pasta with a ragu of sausage and radicchio.
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Museu Histórico Abílio Barreto
The free Museu Histórico Abílio Barreto, southwest of Savassi, features a renovated colonial farmhouse, the solitary remnant of Curral del Rey, the rural village destroyed in the 1890s to make room for Belo. There are some fascinating historical photos and other bric-a-brac.
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Parque Municipal
One of Belo's most appealing spots is Parque Municipal, an enormous sea of tropical greenery with artificial lakes and winding pathways, just 10 minutes southeast of the bus station along Av Afonso Pena. It's especially fun on Sunday, when everyone's out strolling and socializing.
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Banespa Skyscraper
For one of Sampa's best panoramas, head to the top of the Banespa skyscraper, Brazil's version of the Empire State Building, completed in 1939. Ride free to the observation deck on the top floor for views of the city. Note, you will need some form of ID to sign in.
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Satyricon
Best known for its superb seafood – from avocado-and-shrimp-stuffed fish carpaccio to a let-out-all-the-stops mixed grill called fantasia di mare – Satyricon’s wide-ranging Mediterranean menu also includes pizza, pasta and risottos.
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Martín Fierro
Even Brazilians admit that Argentines are the masters of barbecue, and this humble-looking but convivial spot proves their point. The grilled beef is outstanding, while the grilled veggies and empanadas make first-rate accompaniments.
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Miracolo
Buzzing with activity day and night, this popular snack spot features outdoor seating on the cobblestones of Paraty's biggest square. Run by an Italian expat, it's a relaxing place to watch the world go by while sipping a beer.
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Palácio das Artes
The Palácio das Artes, an arts complex with multiple performance spaces and galleries near the southern end of Parque Municipal, is the hub of Belo’s theater, dance, and music-concert scene.
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Estadão
Famous for its pernil (pork loin) sandwiches served on crusty French bread, this no-frills stand-up joint is justifiably popular with both taxi drivers and the late-night revelers they ferry about.
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Mina do Chico-Rei
Mina do Chico-Rei, or Encardadeira, is an abandoned mine. There’s little to see as you stoop through the low passageways, but it’s the perfect place to meditate on the fascinating story of Chico-Rei.
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Chez Michou Crêperie
Crowds flock here not only for the incredible sweet and savory crepes, but also for the outdoor bar serving delicious pinha coladas (piña coladas) and the nightly DJ mixes (from 9pm).
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Ponto Chic
A São Paulo tradition, Ponto Chic is famous for its efficient, bow-tied staff and the extravagant bauru - a sandwich of beef, tomato, pickle and melted cheeses on French bread.
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Bráz
Cooking up what many consider Sampa's best pizza in wood ovens, this rather upscale but always animated spot is worth the 10 to 15 minute walk from Av Paulista.
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Piola
Serving fine, thin-crust wood-oven pizza in a colorful, relaxed, chic dining room, Piola attracts a youngish and hip crowd. Expect a line Sunday evenings.
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Restaurante David
Still going strong after nearly 40 years, David’s serves high-quality seafood at little wooden tables with checkered tablecloths in the heart of town.
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Z-Deli
A Sampa classic, this upscale, invitingly bright Jewish deli specializes in Eastern European comfort food such as gefilte fish and potato dumplings.
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Nakasa
The decor - a stylish take on rustic Japanese architecture - is alluring, and so is the excellent sushi at this rather romantic Jardins option.
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Bananaland
One of several deluxe self-serve eateries on this street, Bananaland has something for everyone. The range of choices is simply astounding.
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