Restaurants in The Southeast
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Bacalhau do Tuga
Since opening in 2009, the ‘Tuga’ (Portuguese guy) has been drawing throngs of people to this beachfront hole-in-the-wall, mixing classic Portuguese codfish recipes with local specialties such as peixe grelhado com molho de manga (grilled fish with mango sauce).
reviewed
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A Bela Paulista
This very agreeable, upscale bakery is especially popular with the gay Paulistano community for its gourmet sandwiches and salads served around the clock. Expect lines in the wee hours as clubs start to close.
reviewed
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Gero
Part of the Fasano family of high-end restaurants, Gero occupies a beautifully minimalist, brick-lined dining room that attracts a lively, fashion-conscious crowd with its brilliantly executed Italian fare, like polenta with squid in its own ink, and homemade pasta with a ragu of sausage and radicchio.
reviewed
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Satyricon
Best known for its superb seafood – from avocado-and-shrimp-stuffed fish carpaccio to a let-out-all-the-stops mixed grill called fantasia di mare – Satyricon’s wide-ranging Mediterranean menu also includes pizza, pasta and risottos.
reviewed
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Martín Fierro
Even Brazilians admit that Argentines are the masters of barbecue, and this humble-looking but convivial spot proves their point. The grilled beef is outstanding, while the grilled veggies and empanadas make first-rate accompaniments.
reviewed
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Miracolo
Buzzing with activity day and night, this popular snack spot features outdoor seating on the cobblestones of Paraty's biggest square. Run by an Italian expat, it's a relaxing place to watch the world go by while sipping a beer.
reviewed
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Estadão
Famous for its pernil (pork loin) sandwiches served on crusty French bread, this no-frills stand-up joint is justifiably popular with both taxi drivers and the late-night revelers they ferry about.
reviewed
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Chez Michou Crêperie
Crowds flock here not only for the incredible sweet and savory crepes, but also for the outdoor bar serving delicious pinha coladas (piña coladas) and the nightly DJ mixes (from 9pm).
reviewed
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Ponto Chic
A São Paulo tradition, Ponto Chic is famous for its efficient, bow-tied staff and the extravagant bauru - a sandwich of beef, tomato, pickle and melted cheeses on French bread.
reviewed
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Bráz
Cooking up what many consider Sampa's best pizza in wood ovens, this rather upscale but always animated spot is worth the 10 to 15 minute walk from Av Paulista.
reviewed
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Piola
Serving fine, thin-crust wood-oven pizza in a colorful, relaxed, chic dining room, Piola attracts a youngish and hip crowd. Expect a line Sunday evenings.
reviewed
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Restaurante David
Still going strong after nearly 40 years, David’s serves high-quality seafood at little wooden tables with checkered tablecloths in the heart of town.
reviewed
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Z-Deli
A Sampa classic, this upscale, invitingly bright Jewish deli specializes in Eastern European comfort food such as gefilte fish and potato dumplings.
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Nakasa
The decor - a stylish take on rustic Japanese architecture - is alluring, and so is the excellent sushi at this rather romantic Jardins option.
reviewed
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Bananaland
One of several deluxe self-serve eateries on this street, Bananaland has something for everyone. The range of choices is simply astounding.
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Chafariz
Eclectically decorated with old photos, religious art, Brazilian flags and antiques, Chafariz is a local institution serving one of the tastiest (if priciest) buffets anywhere in Minas. The menu showcases traditional local favorites such as lombo com feijão tropeiro (beans mixed with manioc flour, crunchy pork rind, sausage, eggs, garlic and onions), followed by Minas cheese and goiabada (guava paste) for dessert. The formally dressed waiters will also ply you with shots of cachaća, coffee and jabuticaba liqueur, all included in the price.
reviewed
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Academia de Cozinha e Outros Prazeres
Tired of eating out? How about cooking your own gourmet dinner tonight, with the help of acclaimed local chef and cookbook author Yara Roberts? Mixing theater with haute cuisine, chef Yara stages cooking classes in Portuguese, English, French and Spanish. Guests learn about Brazilian regional cuisines, assist with the cooking (optional), then sit down to a leisurely dinner and an evening of lively conversation. Groups are often international – residents of over 60 countries have participated to date. The price includes cocktails, wine, desserts and recipes.
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Casa Cheia
The name means ‘full house, ’ and if you visit on a weekend you’ll understand why. People line up by the dozens for a table at this long-established Mercado Central eatery, where a bevy of women cooks up traditional favorites on a giant stove. Pratos do dia (daily specials) include a Saturday feijoada (a bean-and-meat stew served with rice; the Brazilian national dish) for only R$14.50 – not to be missed!
reviewed
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Le Petit
Affable owners Sapo and Miriam launched their business a generation ago as a place for locals to sip beer while waiting to use the town’s lone public phone. Over 20 years later, it’s still popular as much for its unhurried, convivial atmosphere as for its inspired treatments of the valley’s favorite fish; try the trout in sake sauce with coconut farofa (sautéed manioc flour).
reviewed
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Uai Tchê!
This cozy hole-in-the-wall with cachaça bottles lining the shelves serves a mean feijão tropeiro (a classic concoction of rice, beans, sausage and kale) and an even meaner caipirinha to wash it down. The inspired range of artisanal sausages includes truta (made with local trout) and Jamaica (made with chicken, cinnamon, cloves, oranges and honey).
reviewed
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O Porto do Bacalhau
Fine seafood isn't the first thing you'd expect in the landlocked capital of Minas, but it's exactly what O Porto delivers. This traditional place with a covered outdoor terrace has been delighting local palates for three decades, with some of the best bolinhas de bacalhau (codfish fritters), moqueca (Bahian fish stew) and grilled fish this side of the Atlantic.
reviewed
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Sinatra
Excellent fusion cuisine is the name of the game at this fancy eatery with black tablecloths and white lights twined around palm trunks. The Argentine chef, whose other culinary ventures include stints in Ibiza, Spain and Arraial d’Ajuda, cooks up fabulous specials such as risotto de camarão, manga e capim limão (tiger prawns risotto with mango and lemongrass).
reviewed
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Rosmarinus Officinalis
Beautifully set amid gardens, with smoke pouring out its chimney in chilly weather and candlelight reflecting off the windows at night, this restaurant looks like a fairy-tale house, but the food is strictly gourmet. The menu of locally influenced Italian dishes, such as risotto with grilled trout, has earned it a reputation as one of Mauá’s finest restaurants.
reviewed
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O Passo
In a lovely 18th-century building, this restaurant has intimate candlelit rooms with marbled walls; outside, the relaxed terrace overlooking the Casa de Contos is ideal for an after-dinner drink. Everything’s superb – pizza, pasta, salads and the wine list! On Tuesday nights, don’t miss the rodizio de pizzas (all-you-can-eat pizza, R$21.90).
reviewed
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Galeria dos Pães
This gourmet grocery store also has a great deli where the beautiful people of Jardins come to hash out their social lives over an excellent selection of gourmet sandwiches and fresh juices. There’s also a buffet breakfast during the week (R$14), brunch at weekends (R$18) and a daily buffet of soups and baked goods (R$20; 6pm to 5am).
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