Things to do in Paraty
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Miracolo
Buzzing with activity day and night, this popular snack spot features outdoor seating on the cobblestones of Paraty's biggest square. Run by an Italian expat, it's a relaxing place to watch the world go by while sipping a beer.
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Academia de Cozinha e Outros Prazeres
Tired of eating out? How about cooking your own gourmet dinner tonight, with the help of acclaimed local chef and cookbook author Yara Roberts? Mixing theater with haute cuisine, chef Yara stages cooking classes in Portuguese, English, French and Spanish. Guests learn about Brazilian regional cuisines, assist with the cooking (optional), then sit down to a leisurely dinner and an evening of lively conversation. Groups are often international – residents of over 60 countries have participated to date. The price includes cocktails, wine, desserts and recipes.
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Igreja Nossa Senhora Do Rosário
Built by slaves in 1725, the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Rosário served as the city’s black parish. Its two wooden, gilt-trimmed side altars showcase the talents of early 19th-century wood-carvers. Note also the black St Benedict holding the Christ child to the left of the altar, the stone pulpit carved into the wall, and the pineapple-like chandelier base in the roof – a symbol of prosperity. An old burial ground lies beneath the church floorboards.
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Beaches
The closest fine beaches on the coast - Vermelha and Lulas (northeast of Paraty) and Saco do Mamanguá (to the east) - are an hour away by boat. The best island beaches nearby are probably Araújo and Sapeca; many other islands have rocky shores and are private. The mainland beaches tend to be better; most have barracas (stalls) serving beer and fish and, at most, a handful of beachgoers.
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Casa da Cultura
In a beautiful colonial mansion, Paraty’s Casa da Cultura has a fascinating permanent exhibition documenting local culture through photos and videotaped interviews with residents. The museum also displays relics from Paraty’s past, with signs in English and Portuguese. There are fabulous views of town from the main gallery upstairs.
reviewed
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Forte Defensor Perpétuo
A 20-minute walk north of town, Forte Defensor Perpétuo commands a fine view over the bay. It was built in 1703 (and rebuilt in 1822) to defend against pirate raids on the gold pipeline that ran to Minas Gerais. The fort, located on the Morro da Vila Velha (the hill past Praia do Pontal) also houses an arts center.
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Igreja Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos
Igreja Santa Rita dos Pardos Libertos was the church for freed mulattos (persons of mixed black and European parentage). Built in 1722, it houses a tiny museum of sacred art and has some fine woodwork on the doorways and altars. At the time of research, both the church and the museum were closed for renovation.
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Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Remédios
Overlooking the lush Praça da Matriz, the Matriz Nossa Senhora dos Remédios is a fine stone church with handsome tiled floors, wedding cake–style alcoves and a row of glass-encased saint figures peering down at would-be worshippers. Paraty’s settlement began around the time builders first erected the church.
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Igreja NS do Rosário e São Benedito dos Homens Pretos
Igreja NS do Rosário e São Benedito dos Homens Pretos was built in 1725 by and for slaves. Renovated in 1857, the church has gilded wooden altars dedicated to Our Lady of the Rosary, St Benedict and St John. The pineapple-like chandelier base in the roof is a symbol of prosperity.
reviewed
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Matriz NS dos Remédios
Matriz NS dos Remédios was built in 1787 on the site of two 17th-century churches. Inside, there is art from past and contemporary local artists. According to legend, the construction of the church was financed by pirate treasure found hidden on Praia da Trindade.
reviewed
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Praia do Pontal
Back in Paraty, walking north across the river, the first beach you'll reach is Praia do Pontal. A handful of open-air restaurants lines its shore, but the water can get a bit murky. The cleaner and relatively secluded Praia do Forte lies a quick walk north from there.
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Margarida Café
At the edge of the old town, this cavernous yet cozy café has great drinks, plus wood-fired pizzas (from R$19) and inventive meat, fish and pasta dishes. There’s live MPB music (Musica Popular Brazileira) every night from 8pm, with a R$7 cover charge.
reviewed
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Santa Trindade
Since opening in 2009, this bar-restaurant has become an instant hit. Its fixed-price menu (which includes salad, main dish and dessert) is one of the historic center’s best deals. There’s live music nightly (8pm onwards), with a R$7 cover charge.
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Creperia Francesa Farandole
This sweet little creperie with indoor-outdoor seating is run by Philippe, an affable Breton, and his Parisian wife Franćoise. The menu features savory and sweet crepes, all named after characters from the Asterix comic-book series.
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Capela de NS das Dores
Capela de NS das Dores, the church of the colonial white elite, was built in 1800 and renovated in 1901. It houses a small art gallery and a fascinating cemetery in the inner courtyard.
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Le Castellet
The French-Brazilian couple who run this small eatery have created a vibrant, colorful ambience, serving up French favorites such as salade niçoise, croque monsieur and sweet and savory crepes.
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Kontiki
For a unique dining experience, check out this island restaurant in the middle of the bay. Kontiki specializes in seafood paella, and will pick you up at the Paraty pier for the 10-minute crossing.
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Merlin O Mago
At this candlelit restaurant with only eight tables, the globetrotting German chef and his Japanese wife have created a delightful fusion of Brazilian, Asian and European flavors.
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Spaghetto
Candlelit tables line the cobblestones at this Italian place serving seafood-and-pasta specials such as rigatoni camarão e abobrinha (rigatoni with shrimp and zucchini).
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Casa de Artista e Centro de Artes e Tradições Populares de Paraty
The Casa de Artista e Centro de Artes e Tradições Populares de Paraty is a museum and gallery that displays fishing implements and baskets, and sells local handicrafts.
reviewed
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Paraty 33
With an early evening happy hour featuring MPB and bossa nova, and a late-night weekend mix of DJs and live acts, Paraty 33 is the historic center’s liveliest nightspot.
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Casa do Fogo
The name says it all here – everything’s on fire! The menu focuses on seafood set ablaze with the local cachaça, and desserts don’t escape a fiery death either.
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Banana da Terra
Chef Ana Bueno’s creative taste combinations and artistic presentation make this one of Paraty’s classiest restaurants. There’s also an excellent wine list.
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Cheiro do Camarão
Escape the crowds, wiggle your toes in the sand and enjoy some of the finest shrimp around at this informal beachfront eatery 7km up the coast from Paraty.
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Bar do Lucio
On the quieter side of the square, this newly opened local hangout has its own art gallery and is a great spot for a simple meal, with live music nightly.
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