Things to do in Ouro Prêto
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Mina do Chico-Rei
Mina do Chico-Rei, or Encardadeira, is an abandoned mine. There’s little to see as you stoop through the low passageways, but it’s the perfect place to meditate on the fascinating story of Chico-Rei.
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Igreja de Santa Efigênia dos Pretos
The Igreja de Santa Efigênia dos Pretos, built between 1742 and 1749 by and for the black slave community, sits atop a steep hill east of town. Santa Efigênia, patron saint of the church, was the queen of Nubia, and the featured saints – Santo Antônio do Nolo and São Benedito – are black. The slaves prayed to these images that they wouldn’t be crushed in the mines. Despite its relative lack of gold ornamentation, the church is very rich in artwork. The altar is by Aleijadinho’s master, Francisco Javier do Briton, and the exterior image of NS do Rosário is by Aleijadinho himself. The church was financed by gold extracted from Chico-Rei’s mine. Slaves contributed to the ch…
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Chafariz
Eclectically decorated with old photos, religious art, Brazilian flags and antiques, Chafariz is a local institution serving one of the tastiest (if priciest) buffets anywhere in Minas. The menu showcases traditional local favorites such as lombo com feijão tropeiro (beans mixed with manioc flour, crunchy pork rind, sausage, eggs, garlic and onions), followed by Minas cheese and goiabada (guava paste) for dessert. The formally dressed waiters will also ply you with shots of cachaća, coffee and jabuticaba liqueur, all included in the price.
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Matriz NS da Conceição de Antônio Dias
Matriz NS da Conceição de Antônio Dias was designed by Aleijadinho’s father, Manuel Francisco Lisboa, and built between 1727 and 1770. Note the eagle with downturned head and the Virgin Mary surrounded by cherubs: both stand atop images of the moon, symbolizing the Christians’ domination of the Moors. Aleijadinho is buried by the altar of Boa Morte. The Museu do Aleijadinho in the adjoining sacristy displays beautiful works by Aleijadinho and other 18th-century masters.
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Igreja de São Francisco de Assis
If you only visit one church in Ouro Prêto, make sure it’s Igreja de São Francisco de Assis, one block downhill from Praça Tiradentes. This is one of the most important pieces of Brazilian colonial art. Its entire exterior was carved by Aleijadinho himself, from the soapstone medallion to the cannon waterspouts to the Franciscan two-bar cross. The interior was painted by Aleijadinho’s long-term partner, Manuel da Costa Ataíde.
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Bardobeco
This spirited bar has more than 40 brands of cachaça - beware! You can ask for meia doses (half shots served at half price) if you want to retain some semblance of sobriety while you sample. There are also creative caipirinhas (the unofficial national cocktail made from limes, sugar, ice and high-proof sugarcane alcohol; try the tangerina do beco), tasty snacks and live music.
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Capela do Padre Faria
Ouro Prêto’s oldest chapel, built between 1701 and 1704, is the Capela do Padre Faria at the far eastern edge of town. Named after one of the original bandeirantes, Padre Faria, this chapel is set behind a triple-branched papal cross (1756) representing the temporal, spiritual and material powers of the Pope. Because of poor documentation, the artists here are anonymous.
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Matriz NS do Pilar
On the southwest side of town, the Matriz NS do Pilar is the second-most-opulent church in Brazil (after Salvador’s São Francisco). It has 434kg of gold and silver and is one of Brazil’s finest showcases of artwork. Note the wild-bird chandelier holders, the scrolled church doors and the hair on Jesus (the real stuff, donated by a penitent worshipper).
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O Passo
In a lovely 18th-century building, this restaurant has intimate candlelit rooms with marbled walls; outside, the relaxed terrace overlooking the Casa de Contos is ideal for an after-dinner drink. Everything’s superb – pizza, pasta, salads and the wine list! On Tuesday nights, don’t miss the rodizio de pizzas (all-you-can-eat pizza, R$21.90).
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Museu da Inconfidência
The Museu da Inconfidência, formerly the old municipal headquarters and jail, is an attractive building built between 1784 and 1854, on the south side of Praça Tiradentes. The museum contains the tomb of Tiradentes, documents of the Inconfidência Mineira, torture instruments and important works by Ataíde and Aleijadinho.
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Casa do Ouvidor
Just downhill from Praça Tiradentes, Ouvidor has garnered numerous awards for its comida mineira (typical cuisine of Minas Gerais) main meals. The ancient upstairs dining room is especially appealing at night, when low lighting enhances its rustic charm. Definitely come with an empty stomach – portions are immense.
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Museu Aberto/Cidade Viva
Launched in 2005, Ouro Prêto's Museu Aberto/Cidade Viva program invites you to keep your eyes open at every turn, treating the entire city as an open-air museum. Informative historical plaques have been placed on 150 houses around town to heighten visitors' curiosity and expand their knowledge of the city's treasures.
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Oratório Vira-Saia
In the early 18th century, local residents built numerous oratories (glass-encased niches containing images of saints) on street corners around town, to keep evil spirits at bay. Of the few that remain, there's one on Rua dos Paulistas, another on Rua Antônio Dias, and the most famous of all, Oratório Vira-Saia.
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Chocolates Ouro Preto
Best known for its hot chocolate and other sinful indulgences, this newly opened branch of Ouro Prêto’s hometown chocolate factory also serves sandwiches, soups and other savory snacks for under R$10. The original branch at Rua Getúlio Vargas 72 keeps the same hours and prices.
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Bené da Flauta
Directly below Igreja de São Francisco, this place occupies two levels of a gorgeous colonial sobrado (mansion). The open, airy atmosphere, the views and the wine list nicely complement the menu of trout, steak, pasta and Mineiro specialties, all presented with flair.
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Café Geraes
Well-heeled students and artists favor this trendy spot to sip wine, talk shop and linger over creatively prepared salads, pasta, salmon and steak dishes. On weekdays, try the prato executivo lunch – main dish, salad, dessert, juice and coffee for only R$20.
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Museu do Oratório
The Museu do Oratório is in a triple-level colonial house adjacent to the Igreja NS do Carmo. Its fabulous collection of oratories includes several in the uniquely beautiful Minas style, harmoniously integrating soapstone and painted wood.
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Astronomical Observatory
The Museu de Ciência e Técnica da Escola de Minas , in the old governor's palace north of Praça Tiradentes, features dazzling gemstones from around the world. There's also an astronomical observatory .
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Museu de Ciência e Técnica da Escola de Minas
The Museu de Ciência e Técnica da Escola de Minas, in the old governor’s palace north of Praça Tiradentes, features dazzling gemstones from around the world. There’s also an astronomical observatory.
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Casa dos Contos
Casa dos Contos is an 18th-century treasury building that doubled as a prison for members of the Inconfidência. The renovated mansion now houses displays on the history of gold – and money in general – in Brazil.
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City Guides
Official city guides are available from the tourist office. The office also organizes treks and horseback rides into the surrounding hills. Beware of unofficial guides, as there are some nasty characters hanging around.
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Janela do Rosário
This sweet little restaurant with candlelit tables on the cobblestones overlooking Igreja do Rosário serves salads, sandwiches and some creative vegetarian and fish offerings. There's live music on weekends.
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Café e Livraria Cultural
Tucked away just below the tourist office, this little café with exposed stone walls has simple food, fancy coffee drinks and a clean, relaxed feel. A good place to pore over the map and get your bearings.
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Sabor de Minas
Sabor Minas has a varied menu and some of the best prices in town. Their picanha na pedra (tri-tip steak grilled on a stone) is especially recommended; plates are large enough to share.
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Casa de Tomás Antônio Gonzaga
Now the seat of the municipal government, Casa de Tomás Antônio Gonzaga is where Gonzaga and the other Inconfidêntes conspired to put an end to Portuguese rule in Brazil.
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